The event was staged as an immersive performance at the intersection of fashion, theatre, and art — a reflection of Bila’s 17-year theatrical career. In this space, garments become characters, and the runway transforms into a living stage.

The Show 

The evening opened with a live orchestral performance featuring excerpts from Modelle by Hans Zender. Actress Larisa Rusnak (Ivan Franko National Academic Drama Theatre) appeared in a short theatrical scene, blurring the line between performer and spectator.

The audience then witnessed a retrospective of MY THEATRE’s past collections, tracing the evolution of the brand. A highlight of the evening was a musical performance by Onuka, whose soundscape amplified the immersive atmosphere of the show.

As always, craftsmanship remained central to the brand: hand-crafted buttons, intricate embroidery, silk, velvet, brocade, and wool — each look representing dozens of hours of artisanal labor. The evening culminated with the unveiling of the new Collection №6.

About The Collection 

Collection №6 continues the core philosophy of MY THEATRE: conscious garment creation emphasizing craftsmanship, texture, and emotional depth.

The collection draws inspiration from the opera The Tales of Hoffmann, for which Dariia Bila previously designed stage costumes. Exploring love, illusion, and the inner world of a woman, the opera became the conceptual foundation of the collection.

The palette begins with shades of grey — initially unsettling, but ultimately forming the backdrop from which a new heroine emerges. At the heart of Collection №6 lies a sense of anticipation: the delicate moment between doubt and certainty, searching and equilibrium. The MY THEATRE heroine listens to herself, allowing transformation through the process rather than rushing toward it.

Dariia Bila— Comments

“This show is about emotion and the search for identity. It is a retrospective of MY THEATRE — a journey through collections, performances, doubts, and joys that have shaped the brand. Every detail matters, echoing the most subtle human emotions. The finale presents a new collection dedicated to hope — because even in the darkest night, dawn always comes.“

Instagram: @mytheatre.by.dariiabila

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The Hierarchy of Art: Why Fashion Has Always Been Underestimated

Fashion has long struggled for acknowledgement and recognition within the established art canon. For centuries, the painter’s brush, the sculptor’s chisel, and the musician’s score reigned supreme, while fashion was dismissed as a fleeting commodity, a superficial subset, a mere accessory to life rather than a form of intellectual or aesthetic expression. Art history’s fixation on permanence and “high” culture pushed fashion to the margins, seen as craft rather than art, industry rather than inspiration.

But this dismissal ignores fundamental truths: fashion is inherently artistic. It involves composition, colour, textures, innovation, and storytelling. Designing a garment or even styling a look is akin to painting with fabric and form, sculpting identity and cultural narrative. When we consider iconic pieces like the structural genius of Charles James’ ballgowns, the surreal visionary collaborations of Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dalí, or the boundary-pushing designs of Rei Kawakubo, we see undeniable artistry that transcends utility and function.

Costume Art: More Than a Theme; It’s a Challenge to Artistic Prejudice

The 2026 Met Gala’s Costume Art theme is a bold, timely challenge to the art world’s longstanding prejudices. Even though the dress code for the 2026 Gala has not been announced yet, the theme urges us to look beyond fashion’s surface–past the transient trends and consumer cycles–and recognise the artistry baked into every stitch, fold, and flourish. This theme aims to elevate fashion from “clothes” to a vital art form, emphasising that the way we adorn our bodies is a creative act just as profound as painting or sculpture. It’s beautiful, it’s raw, and it’s enticing.

Curator-in-Chief Andrew Bolton captured this essence when he said, “I wanted to focus on the centrality of the dressed body within the museum, connecting artistic representations of the body with fashion as an embodied art form.” His words remind us that clothing is not just an accessory to our bodies but a direct expression and extension of identity, culture, and art itself. It turns the body into a canvas, and at the Met, this idea will be celebrated through an exhibition opening come spring 2026, featuring pieces that exemplify the deep relationship between the human form and the garments that define it.

This exhibition will showcase how clothing transforms the body into an artwork, whether through sculptural couture, wearable sculptures, or fashion that challenges normative ideas of beauty and identity. It will explore the ways in which garments can embody cultural history, political messages, and social narratives, capturing the complex dialogue between art, fashion, and human experience. Fashion has always had ties to society; fashion changes as the economy, society, and politics change. The 2025 and 2026 themes uphold this, as well as the recent changes in style and trends. 

Fashion’s Dialogue with Society: The Artifice and Authenticity of Identity

In today’s hyperconnected world, discussions about cultural appropriation, identity politics, and representation have catapulted fashion to the forefront of societal and online discourse. The red carpet is no longer merely a parade of beauty; it is a powerful stage for political statements, reclamation of culture, and the contestation of norms.

The Met Gala, year after year, becomes a microcosm of these debates. Consider 2024’s Black Dandyism theme, which elevated expressions of Black identity and style to an art form, challenging racist cultural erasures. The theme’s Superfine: Tailoring Black Style showcased how tailored silhouettes became acts of resistance, elegance, and history.

Costume Art continues this trajectory by highlighting fashion’s capacity to carry memory, myth, and meaning. It celebrates how designers channel the surrealist brush of Elsa Schiaparelli or the sculptural mastery of Charles James, or reinterpret historical and contemporary sociopolitical themes through fabric and form. The exhibition aims to deepen our understanding of the “indivisible connection between our bodies and the clothes we wear,” as Bolton emphasises. Clothes, in this context, are not mere covers but are expressions of our lived experience, embracing ageing, gender, cultural identity, and societal values.

The Body as Living Canvas: Where Costume Meets Embodiment

Andrew Bolton’s vision: “the centrality of the dressed body within the museum connecting artistic representations of the body with fashion as an embodied art form” underscores that clothing is not just ornamentation but is an ongoing dialogue with our physical and emotional selves. The exhibition will challenge the tendency to abstract or glorify the body, instead celebrating its diversity and vulnerability. It champions garments that reflect age, gender, body types, and cultural backgrounds, emphasising that fashion’s true artistry lies in its capacity to mirror human reality.

This focus on embodiment also shifts the conversation around beauty, which is a core and paramount theme of artistic expression. With displays that include ageing and pregnant bodies, as well as diverse physiques, the exhibit will openly challenge traditional standards of beauty, advocating a broader, more inclusive definition of aesthetic excellence.

Lessons from the Red Carpet: When Fashion Transforms into Performance

The Met Gala’s red carpet is fashion’s grand theatre. It’s where we witness designers and celebrities collaborate to produce living artworks that narrate complex ideas. Some looks pay explicit homage to art movements like Surrealism or Pop Art; others convey political and personal statements and narratives through colour, shape, and symbolism.

Recall Rihanna’s Guo Pei gown at the 2015 China: Through the Looking Glass Gala, a majestic yellow masterpiece embroidered with floral motifs and weighing over 50 pounds, exemplifying craftsmanship and cultural storytelling. Or Lady Gaga’s 2019 Camp performance, a theatrical sequence where she shed layers of outrageous outfits: each a statement on identity, artifice, and creation.

These moments fortify that fashion (like art) is performative, provocative, and deeply expressive. The Costume Art theme will challenge designers and celebrities to push beyond fashion, as fashion, urging them to craft visual narratives rooted in history, mythology, and societal issues.

Fashion and the Digital Age: Online Debate and Society’s Engagement

Amidst this, the ongoing social media discourse is vital. Conversations about cultural appropriation, authenticity, and the politics of representation animate platforms like Twitter and TikTok. Each viral look sparks debate about what constitutes art and what crosses the line into cultural insensitivity.

Fashion’s digital democratisation allows marginalised voices to critique and reshape the narrative, challenging the privileging of “high art” standards. The Costume Art theme acts as a rallying cry for that discussion: celebrating diverse stories, artistic innovation, and the vital significance of clothing as cultural expression.

Toward a Broader Art History

The enduring struggle is: Why is fashion still considered separate from traditional art? This question echoes in galleries, museums, and classrooms alike. As the costume collections grow in prominence, it’s clear that the art world might hopefully expand its definition to include fashion as a dynamic, living art form that evolves with society.

The Costume Art exhibition at the Met will do more than showcase beautiful clothes; it will challenge us to see fashion as a vital, expressive, and transformative artistic language. Its influence extends beyond aesthetics, shaping cultural dialogue, identity formation, and societal change.

Closing Reflection: What the Future Holds

The 2026 Met Gala, with its Costume Art theme, is set to be more than a spectacular dress-up and, hopefully, a statement about the power of fashion to reflect its stance in society. As I watch the preparations unfold, I see it as a moment of breakthrough: fashion finally stepping into the art world’s heart, embracing its role as a conduit of cultural memory, artistic expression, and individual identity.

More than glamour, this will be an act of cultural reclamation and an affirmation that clothing is art, and that the artistry of fashion deserves recognition, reflection, and respect. This is the year fashion meets art in a profound way, and I believe this dialogue, sparked by the Costume Art theme, will resonate far beyond the red carpet.

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But as the glitter settled, one thing became clear: you just can’t please everyone.​

The Show as a Mirror: Glamour, Grievances, and Growing Pains

Online reactions are a masterclass in contradiction. Last year, some fans mourned the loss of the old bombshell blowout hair and maximalist fantasy wings, yearning for the “impossible” glamour of past Angels. And then they cheered for this year’s comeback looks and relatable moments while simultaneously slamming them for “cheapening” the show’s reputation.

Want more sparkle? You’ll get a complaint about excess.

Miss the sparkle? The new wings are called lazy, and the fantasy bra isn’t expensive enough.

And the cast, oh the cast — which, remarkably, now includes athletes (Angel Reese), influencers (Gabriela Moura, Quenlin Blackwell), Olympic gold-medalists (Suni Lee), and legacy supermodels (Adriana Lima, Gigi Hadid, Anok Yai) — is an ongoing battleground. Last year, critics bemoaned influencers for taking space from “real” models; this year, some praise their presence while others doubled down, arguing that VS models should represent “unattainable” standards, a fantasy worth striving (and suffering) for.​

Music, Moments, and More: You Really Can’t Win

Music choices aren’t immune to this cycle. Madison Beer was lauded for fitting the historic VS aesthetic, but netizens wanted Tate McRae or Sabrina Carpenter for “perfect” pop vibes. Some fans were excited for TWICE’s crossover performance, but harsh criticism followed, particularly of the group’s live vocals.

It’s a pattern: last year, a group was slammed, this year they’re praised, next year the cycle repeats.​ Who knows what will happen?

Frustratingly, even wholesome moments fuel the discourse, like the tradition of Dylan Sprouse supporting his partner Barbara Sprouse from the front row, generating both awws and eye-rolls about “performative support”. Emma Beddington was right, advice pollution is a real thing.

The Real Issue: Societal Discontent and Shifting Standards

At its core, the fashion show’s controversy isn’t just about the models or the music. It’s about society’s ever-shifting yardsticks and the digital age’s appetite for debate. The runway becomes a lightning rod for bigger tensions: beauty standards, inclusivity, authenticity, and the fantasy that someone somewhere can finally “get it right.”

When VS focused on a single type of body, tall, ultra-thin, and white, there was rightful outrage about exclusion. Now, with more racial diversity and incremental size representation, some argue it’s not enough, while others claim the brand has lost its aspirational identity. The same crowd that called for change demands tradition; those who loved the old models want more from the new. It’s not just fashion; it’s a reflection of our societal ambivalence about progress.

The Takeaway: Pleasing Everyone is a Mirage

Digital culture amplifies these contradictions. Social feeds and comment sections cycle between nostalgia for the “glory days” and applause for disruption, backlash against inclusivity and campaigns for relatability, praise and vitriol often aimed at the same moment. Each change sparks both celebration and crisis.

Victoria’s Secret, like many cultural institutions, is stuck in a feedback loop: evolve and face backlash, stay stagnant and risk irrelevance. The real answer isn’t about lace, wings, or who walks the runway. It’s about the impossibility of meeting the needs of every audience, and the potential beauty in embracing imperfection, open-ended progress, and representation that’s almost always “not enough yet.”​

The 2025 fashion show isn’t a verdict on Victoria’s Secret alone; it’s an ongoing conversation about what society wants, expects, and demands. For now, it seems pleasing everyone is beyond anyone’s reach, but maybe the dialogue itself is the point.

The post Who Gets to Be Pleased? Victoria’s Secret, Society, and the Impossible Quest for Consensus appeared first on Fashion Law Journal.

Liability in Fashion Weeks

One of the most burning issues in fashion weeks is the question of liability. Contractors, venue proprietors, and organizers are at risk of paying out-of-court lawsuits in case accidents happen during performances. The simplest negligence and premises liability claims could be caused by such a seemingly innocent event as a model getting injured on a poorly lit runway. On the same note, faulty construction of stages or overcrowding of structures may subject the organizers to any legal suits by participants and attendees. Such risks have necessitated event insurance. Extensive policies are now in place to cover bodily injury, property damage and even cancellation as a result of unexpected disruption. However, there is always controversy over who is to be held accountable in the end: the organiser, the venue, or the contractors. Such ongoing bargaining of responsibility is evidence of the centrality of risk management to the legal structure of fashion events.

Brand Rights and Sponsorship Contracts.

The financial support for most fashion weeks is typically provided through sponsorship. Exposure, uniqueness, and being connected with prestige come at a high cost to the brands. Contracts for such deals are particular and elaborate, dictating the placement of logos on stages, official broadcast mentions, and VIP access for brand representatives. The stakes are so high that squabbles are the order of the day, especially over exclusivity clauses. If an opposing brand is also exposed during the same event, the sponsoring company can argue that it has breached the contract. Another point of concern is ambush marketing, which introduces another level of complexity into the system, as non-sponsors often seek to capitalise on the event’s visible aspects without officially holding the rights. This has resulted in unfair competition and trademark conflicts in different jurisdictions. Moreover, sponsorship deals typically include morality provisions, and this permits the sponsor to pull out should the event or its participants get into trouble. These provisions have become an essential protective tool to corporate reputation in an age where social media is being tremendously amplified instantly.

Performer and Model Rights

As designers and brands garner attention, performers, and particularly models, are the workhorses of fashion weeks. Their freedoms and safeguards are becoming more legally questionable. Model contracts are not only supposed to include salaries, but also termination costs, working hours, wardrobe, and rights to the photographs and video recordings. Payment delays and exploitative terms, however, are not new in the business, and governments are increasingly intervening in enforcement. An example is France, which has made medical certifications mandatory to ensure that models are not dangerously underweight. New York has introduced the Fashion Workers Act, which imposes transparency and enhanced guarantees on models and fashion freelancers. Image rights are also a growing concern, alongside health and pay. Their likeness may be used in promotional campaigns years after the event, without additional permission fees.

Media Rights and Intellectual Property.

In 1996, the government lifted restrictions on slavery and expression freedoms, but omitted others.

Intellectual property issues are very susceptible to fashion weeks. Designers typically launch their collections several months before retailing, which exposes them to design piracy. Illegal images and live streams have the potential to enable fast-fashion firms to copy designs prior to other companies entering the market. In response, certain fashion weeks have banned photography or restricted access to accredited media. Music licensing is another significant field of legal compliance, alongside clothing design. Use of copyrighted music in performances requires organisers to take licenses on public performances with collecting societies, and recorded broadcasting or promotional videos need to be licensed for the use of synchronisation rights. The impact of the inability to secure these licenses is the exposure of the organizers to infringement cases and fines. These risks have been heightened by the emergence of digital streaming and social media, which have resulted in intellectual property management becoming one of the top backstage concerns.

Regulatory and International issues.

Fashion weeks are also subject to various regulatory and international issues. The organisers need to obtain local noise, liquor, and public assembly permits, as well as comply with other fire and safety codes. Foreigners, such as designers, models, and sponsors, make things even more complicated. Their contracts usually include a jurisdiction and choice-of-law provision to decide where disputes are to be settled. There is an extra layer of cultural sensitivity. Attire or acts that might be considered acceptable in one country could lead to legal suits under obscenity or cultural protection laws in another country. By doing this, the globalisation of the fashion weeks renders it essential to comply with local legislation regarding the correct stage lighting.

Conclusion

At fashion weeks, the fine line between art and illegality is uncovered. The rules on liability protect participants and spectators, the economic model is maintained through sponsorship contracts, the human face of the runway is safeguarded by performer rights, and intellectual property laws protect creative expression. They are collectively used to demonstrate that the fashion weeks are elaborate legal productions, as much as they are artistic displays. The legal challenges are expected to increase further in the next few years, driven by the rapid development of digital streaming, AI-generated media, and sustainability demands. Finally, fashion lawyers are the invisible forces that ensure the show runs smoothly once the lights are turned on. The camera starts rolling, without any legal shadows being cast over it.

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– Anya Petrova, celebrity stylist

The Cannes Film Festival. Just the name conjures images of dazzling stars, breathtaking gowns, and a healthy dose of old-Hollywood glamour. But beneath the surface of flashing cameras and champagne toasts lies a surprisingly specific set of fashion expectations. So, what’s considered correct when it comes to dressing for the Cannes red carpet, and what happens when those unspoken rules are… well, broken?

The Cannes Red Carpet Dress Code: An Introduction to the Glamour and the Guidelines

Cannes isn’t just a film festival; it’s a cultural event. The red carpet is more than a photo op; it’s a stage where artistry and fashion collide. The dress code, while often described as “black tie,” is actually more nuanced. Think elegant evening wear: floor-length gowns are the reigning queens, but sophisticated cocktail dresses can also make an appearance, especially for daytime events. Men typically sport tuxedos, although creative variations are becoming more common.

However, the festival’s guidelines aren’t always explicitly stated, leading to confusion and, occasionally, controversy. What one person sees as chic, another might deem too revealing or simply… inappropriate.

Cannes Film Festival Clarification: What the Rules Actually Say

The Cannes Film Festival rarely issues detailed, written dress code guidelines. The unspoken rule has always been formal evening attire. However, in 2018, there was a reported incident where women were allegedly turned away for not wearing high heels, prompting a strong backlash.

Following the controversy, the festival issued a statement, although not precisely a written dress code, clarifying that while formal attire is expected, there is no mandatory high-heel rule. The festival emphasized a commitment to welcoming all guests and treating everyone with respect, regardless of their footwear choice.

Cannes press officers said the festival “made explicit in its charter certain rules that have long been in effect. The aim is not to regulate attire per se, but to prohibit full nudity on the red carpet, in accordance with the institutional framework of the event and French law.” Cannes also noted that “voluminous outfits, in particular those with a large train, that hinder the proper flow of traffic of guests and complicate seating in the theatre are not permitted.”

Controversies and Criticisms: When the Cannes Dress Code Goes Too Far

The Cannes dress code has faced its share of criticism over the years. Some argue that it’s elitist and excludes individuals who may not have access to expensive designer clothing. Others believe it perpetuates outdated beauty standards and objectifies women.

The perceived “high heel ban” incident in 2018 sparked outrage and prompted actresses like Kristen Stewart to protest by removing her heels on the red carpet. This incident underscored the feeling that the unspoken rules sometimes prioritize appearance over comfort and equality.

Another point of contention arises when cultural attire is perceived as not adhering to the “formal” dress code. Instances where traditional clothing has been questioned or criticized have led to accusations of cultural insensitivity.

Cannes and the Evolution of Red Carpet Fashion: A Historical Perspective

The Cannes red carpet has evolved significantly since the festival’s inception in 1946. In the early days, the focus was on classic Hollywood glamour, with stars like Sophia Loren and Grace Kelly setting the standard. Over time, trends have shifted, and designers have become increasingly daring, pushing the boundaries of what’s considered acceptable.

Bella Hadid at the Cannes Film Festival in 2021

The rise of social media has also impacted red carpet fashion. Celebrities are now more aware of how their outfits will be perceived and judged online, leading to increased pressure to make a statement. This has resulted in both incredibly stylish and occasionally disastrous fashion choices.

The late 90’s and early 2000’s marked an era of more revealing red carpet styles. However, in recent years there seems to be a gradual return to more classic, elegant silhouettes.

Director Luc Besson and Milla Jovovich at the Cannes Film Festival in 1997

Beyond the Red Carpet: Nudity in Cannes Film Festival Films and Artistic Expression

It’s important to remember that the ban applies to the red carpet, not the films being screened at the festival. Nudity and sexuality are often integral parts of storytelling and artistic expression in cinema. Films that explore complex themes through the use of nudity are unlikely to be affected by the new red carpet policy.

Ultimately, the success of the nudity ban will depend on how it’s enforced and how willing stars are to comply. Only time will tell if this new policy will reshape the Cannes Film Festival red carpet, or if it will be met with creative resistance and a renewed focus on pushing fashion boundaries in subtle, yet captivating ways. One thing is certain: the world will be watching.

The post Beyond ‘Naked’: Navigating the Cannes Red Carpet Dress Code – Clarifications & Controversies appeared first on Fashion Law Journal.

The Met Gala: A Stage for Black Dandyism’s Grand Performance

The Met Gala, with its themes celebrating fashion history, uniquely provides a stage for Black Dandyism. It’s an unparalleled opportunity to showcase the evolution of this movement and its ongoing relevance. For years, Black artists and designers have used the Gala to reclaim their narratives and redefine what it means to be fashionable. The event is not just about wearing expensive clothes; it’s about telling a story through sartorial choices.

Colman Domingo and the Resurgence of Refined Rebellion on the Red Carpet

Colman Domingo’s red carpet appearances often blend classic tailoring with unexpected details. While designers haven’t always explicitly stated “Black Dandyism” as the inspiration, the spirit of the movement – challenging norms, celebrating individuality, and commanding attention – is undeniably present.

Credit: Getty

Arriving with fellow co-chairs Lewis Hamilton and Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, Colman Domingo dropped jaws wearing a Valentino cape piece that mimicked the cape of a church choir. The look was paired with a stunning earpiece and a press plate neck piece.

Credit: Getty

His second look, a Valentino three- piece suit, revealed a playfulness of textures, patterns and colouring along with his shirt, tie and brooch. His look paid homage to late American journalist André Leon Talley, who was a representation of the American Dandy and who wore a similar blue cape to the 2011 Met Gala. 

ASAP Rocky and Lewis Hamilton: Modern Black Dandyism Fashion Disruptors

ASAP Rocky and Lewis Hamilton are also the co-chairs who champion this aesthetic. Rocky’s eclectic style, often incorporating vintage pieces and streetwear elements, reflects the multifaceted nature of modern Black Dandyism. He mixes high fashion with streetwear.

Rocky stepped out in a custom style from his agency AWGE, in true Fashion Killa style. He wore a double-breasted AWGE parka in technical wool, with coated snaps and Velcro detailing on the sleeves.  His hair had been braided intricately, and he accessorised his look with an umbrella. His jacket was inspired by the Marmot outerwear that Rocky saw people wear while growing up in his native Harlem. The jackets represented a modern-day dandy to him, and his outfit paid homage to that.

Credit: Getty

“Black is Back”, says ASAP Rocky. 

 Hamilton showed up and showed out, using his platform to promote emerging Black designers and showcase bold, statement-making looks that challenge traditional menswear norms. His intentional collaborations with designers are acts of support that are crucial for the diversification of the fashion industry.

The F1 star wore a custom ivory-coloured Grace Wales Bonner suit, matching beret with gold accents, and a diamond brooch by New York jeweller Briony Raymond. Every detail of his look, down to the satin stripe of his pants, was mindfully crafted to pay homage to the black culture through the power of adornment. The ivory colour represents the designer’s spirituality, the brooch blooming represents the opening and receiving of black culture, and the white on white is an ode to late American painter Barkley L. Hendricks. 

Credit: Michael Buckner/Penske Media via Getty Images

“Inspired by Harlem Renaissance”, says Lewis Hamilton.

Alton Mason’s Met Gala Look: A Masterclass in Contemporary Black Dandyism

Alton Mason consistently delivers memorable Met Gala looks. He embodies the spirit of Dandyism with his bold and confident style.

“Afro futurism”, says Alton Mason

Wearing custom Boss, he did a grand reveal on the carpet, showcasing a two-piece silver suit, tailored with an open heart at the front, inspired by his favourite anime character, Giorno Giovanna (Jojo). He wore a structured black cape on top, which had around ten shoulder pads, and a black Panama hat. 

Mason’s look showcased a masterful blend of classic elegance and modern flair, paying homage to the 90s music scene with a diamond eye patch while incorporating elements of Black culture and self-expression.

Black Dandyism: A Historical Foundation for Sartorial Rebellion

Before we dive into the dazzling displays at the Met Gala, let’s ground ourselves in the history of Black Dandyism. It’s more than just wearing fancy clothes; it’s a statement. Born in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, Black Dandyism was a radical act during times of intense oppression. Enslaved Africans and, later, free Black men and women used clothing to assert their identity, dignity, and humanity in a world that denied them both. Think perfectly tailored suits, vibrant colours, and meticulous attention to detail – a visible declaration of self-worth.

Figures like William Brown, a formerly enslaved man who became a successful businessman in 19th-century London, embodied this spirit. His impeccable style challenged racist stereotypes and demonstrated Black excellence. This tradition continued through the Harlem Renaissance and beyond, with figures like Zora Neale Hurston, who embraced bold patterns and individual style. These were all powerful declarations of self-determination through fashion.

Black Excellence in Fashion: How the Met Gala Celebrates Black Dandyism

The Met Gala’s inclusion of Black designers and the celebration of Black aesthetics are steps in the right direction. Seeing more Black stylists, makeup artists, and hairstylists working with attendees is also crucial. This holistic approach ensures that the stories being told on the red carpet are authentic and nuanced. However, there’s still work to be done. The fashion industry needs to continue amplifying Black voices and providing opportunities for Black creatives. It’s a collective responsibility to ensure that Black creatives are not just included, but also celebrated and supported.

Black Dandyism’s Enduring Impact: Inspiring Future Generations of Fashion at the Met Gala

The legacy of Black Dandyism extends far beyond the Met Gala. It influences contemporary fashion trends, encourages individuality, and provides inspiration for future generations. The movement’s emphasis on self-expression, creativity, and cultural pride resonates with young people searching for ways to define their identities. Seeing figures like Domingo, Rocky, Hamilton, and Mason confidently embrace their style encourages others to do the same.

The Met Gala is a powerful platform, and when used to celebrate Black Dandyism, it becomes a catalyst for change. It’s a reminder that fashion is more than just clothing; it’s a form of resistance, a celebration of culture, and a powerful tool for self-expression. The Gala’s celebration of Black Dandyism’s enduring legacy inspires, challenges, and shapes the fashion of today and the future. And that’s something worth celebrating.

The post Alton Mason, ASAP Rocky, Lewis Hamilton, Coleman Domingo at the Met Gala 2025: How Fashion Became a Stage for Cultural Reclamation appeared first on Fashion Law Journal.

Get ready, fashion lovers! The Met Gala 2025 is shaping up to be an unforgettable night. The theme? “Superfine Tailoring & Black Style.” Forget fleeting trends; this is about celebrating artistry, heritage, and the powerful statements that clothing can make. We’re talking meticulously crafted garments, a deep dive into Black dandyism, and a red carpet brimming with stars ready to express themselves. Expect iconic looks and conversations that go far beyond what people wear.

The Costume Institute exhibit promises to be a visual feast. Think of it as a love letter to Black communities’ sartorial excellence and cultural influence. Get ready to explore how Black style has shaped and continues to shape global fashion trends.

Defining “Superfine Tailoring” and Its Met Gala Significance

So, what exactly is “superfine tailoring“? It’s more than just a well-fitting suit. It’s the art of creating garments with incredible precision, using the finest materials, and paying obsessive attention to every detail. Think hand-stitched seams, perfectly balanced proportions, and fabrics that drape like a dream.

Its Met Gala significance lies in acknowledging the often-overlooked contributions of Black designers and tailors to this craft. This is a chance to showcase the skill and artistry that have been a part of Black communities for generations. Imagine the intricate beadwork of a custom-made gown or the sharp, clean lines of a bespoke suit – all highlighting the dedication to quality and craft. For example, the exhibit might feature the work of contemporary Black designers pushing the boundaries of tailoring, using techniques like pattern manipulation or incorporating traditional African textiles into modern silhouettes. This kind of exposure puts a spotlight on talents that deserve wider recognition.

The Black Dandy: Defining an Aesthetic of Resistance and Refinement

So, what exactly is a Black Dandy? It’s more than just wearing fancy clothes. It’s about taking ownership of one’s image, crafting a personal style that blends sophistication, historical awareness, and a defiant spirit. Think tailored suits with unexpected pops of colour, vintage accessories with a modern twist, and an overall air of unapologetic elegance. The Black Dandy uses fashion as a form of self-expression, resistance, and cultural commentary.

From the Streets to High Society: The Historical Evolution of Black Dandyism

The roots of this style can be traced back to 19th-century Europe, where figures like Ignatius Sancho, an abolitionist writer and composer in London, defied racial stereotypes with his refined manners and attire. During the Harlem Renaissance, figures like Langston Hughes and Zora Neale Hurston embraced a vibrant cultural identity that included sartorial excellence. The Zoot Suit Riots of the 1940s serve as a stark example of how Black style, deemed “unpatriotic” during wartime, was often met with violence and suppression.

This tradition continued through jazz musicians who used sharp dressing as a way to command respect and reclaim agency, and continues today. Contemporary scholars like Shantrelle P. Lewis, author of “Dandy Lion: Black Dandyism and Street Style,” have brought renewed attention to the movement’s history and significance.

The Enduring Legacy of Black Dandyism and Its 2025 Met Gala Interpretation

Black dandyism, a movement that dates back centuries, is a vital part of this theme. It’s about self-expression, resilience, and reclaiming narratives through impeccably tailored clothing. In an era when societal norms often tried to diminish Black individuals, dandyism became a powerful way to assert identity, dignity, and style.

The Met Gala interpretation promises to be fascinating. Expect nods to historical figures who epitomised the movement, like William Dorsey Swann, who in the 1880s was America’s first self-proclaimed drag queen and often wore elaborate outfits. The exhibit will show how this historical context continues to inspire contemporary Black style. Think bold colour combinations, unexpected fabric choices, and accessories that tell a story. We can expect to see homages to iconic looks and modern interpretations celebrating individuality and Black joy.

A League of Their Own: ASAP Rocky, Colman Domingo, Lewis Hamilton & Pharrell Williams Red Carpet Moments

When it comes to pushing boundaries and making a statement on the red carpet, ASAP Rocky, Colman Domingo, Lewis Hamilton, and Pharrell Williams consistently deliver.

• ASAP Rocky

Rocky’s experimental approach to fashion often blends high-end tailoring with streetwear influences. Remember his 2021 Met Gala look with Rihanna? Expect something equally unexpected.

• Colman Domingo

Domingo’s recent style evolution has been nothing short of captivating. He embraces bold colours, unique textures, and perfectly tailored pieces that exude confidence and sophistication.

• Lewis Hamilton

Hamilton is known for using his Met Gala appearances to champion emerging Black designers. His commitment to inclusivity and his eye for sharp tailoring make him a red carpet force.

• Pharrell Williams

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A true style icon, Pharrell’s influence on fashion spans decades. He seamlessly blends streetwear, luxury, and avant-garde elements, always staying true to his unique vision.

These men, among others, will be key figures in bringing the theme to life on the red carpet, showcasing how “superfine tailoring” and Black style can be both a personal expression and a powerful cultural statement.

Designers to Watch: Shaping the Future of Black Style and Tailoring at the Met Gala

While the theme celebrates established icons, it also opens doors for emerging Black designers to shine. Keep an eye out for:

• Theophilio: Known for his vibrant, Caribbean-inspired designs and impeccable tailoring.
• Wales Bonner: Grace Wales Bonner blends European and African influences to create sophisticated and thought-provoking collections.
• Pyer Moss: Kerby Jean-Raymond’s Pyer Moss uses fashion to explore themes of Black identity and social justice.

These designers, and others like them, are not just creating clothes; they are crafting narratives and challenging the status quo. The Met Gala 2025 will provide them with an unparalleled platform to showcase their talent and vision to a global audience. Their innovative designs and fresh perspectives are shaping the future of Black style and tailoring, inspiring hope and excitement for what’s to come in the fashion industry.

A Met Gala theme celebrating Black Dandyism could have a lasting impact. It would not only elevate Black designers and artists but also encourage a more inclusive and diverse understanding of fashion history. We might see:

• More Black designers featured on the red carpet: Designers like Telfar Clemens, Virgil Abloh (posthumously celebrated), and Kerby Jean-Raymond (formerly of Pyer Moss) could inspire many attendees.
• A wider range of interpretations: Beyond traditional suiting, expect to see creative explorations of texture, colour, and silhouette.
• Increased representation: More Black stylists, makeup artists, and hairstylists working behind the scenes.

Brands known for embracing individuality and pushing boundaries, such as Gucci, Comme des Garçons, and even streetwear giants like Off-White, are also likely to contribute exciting interpretations.

Beyond the Garment: Daring Statements and Cultural Commentary Through Fashion

The Met Gala is never just about the clothes. It’s a stage for making statements, sparking conversations, and challenging perceptions. In the context of “Superfine Tailoring & Black Style,” expect to see designs that address issues of representation, cultural appropriation, and the ongoing fight for equality.

We might see garments that incorporate historical references, paying tribute to unsung heroes of the Black community. Or perhaps we’ll see designers using their platform to amplify important social messages. Fashion has always been a powerful tool for communication, and this Met Gala has the potential to be a particularly impactful one.

The Future of Fashion: Will Superfine Tailoring and Black Style Continue to Reign at the Met Gala?

The Met Gala 2025 offers a pivotal moment to acknowledge and celebrate the profound impact of Black style and tailoring on the global fashion scene. But what happens after the red carpet is rolled up and the exhibit closes? Will this theme leave a lasting legacy?

Hopefully, it will encourage greater inclusivity and representation within the fashion industry. By highlighting the contributions of Black designers and the enduring influence of Black dandyism, the Met Gala has the potential to inspire a new generation of talent and to foster a more equitable and diverse fashion world. Furthermore, the Met Gala’s choice of this theme can encourage a deeper appreciation for craftsmanship and quality. As consumers become more conscious of the environmental and social impact of their clothing choices, a focus on “superfine tailoring” could promote a shift towards more sustainable and ethical fashion practices. Only time will tell, but the spotlight is most definitely on Black excellence and exquisite tailoring.

The Met Gala 2025 is poised to be more than just a glamorous event. It’s a celebration of artistry, a cultural statement, and a potential catalyst for change within the fashion industry. Get ready for a night of unforgettable looks and conversations that will resonate long after the last celebrity departs.

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The Row, known for its “quiet luxury,” made a daring request to attendees that they do not take pictures or films during the show, sending shockwaves across the fashion industry and defying the usual social media frenzy. A lifestyle that values understated elegance and quality over conspicuous shows of wealth is known as quiet luxury. It’s meant for people who value discernment and exclusivity without the garish displays of money or too boastful rhetoric. Quiet luxury prioritises well-made, long-lasting things over fashionable and fast-fashion ones. Discrete luxury is about understanding what’s well-made and prioritising quality over quantity, not just about pricey names.

Fans and guests were left in a state of mild amazement when Vanessa Friedman, the chief fashion critic and fashion director of The New York Times, spilled the beans on The Row’s unorthodox request. “The Row looks forward to having you… We kindly ask that you refrain from capturing or sharing any content during your experience,” the statement said. Let’s hear everyone scream in dismay at once. The reason for this is that The Row isn’t just any luxury brand; rather, it’s the pinnacle of subtle elegance, where money speaks louder than words.

This brand, whose T-shirts cost an amazing $550, is unmatched in its mastery of exclusivity. The Row has also mastered the art of hidden affluence by restricting who can purchase their clothes as well as who can even see them. Of course, there are benefits to taking pictures and filming at fashion events. It captures the flow of clothing in motion and assists editors and buyers in selecting which items to shoot and stock. According to the audience, it’s also about showing off on Instagram. Getting invited to a fashion show such as The Row’s is a huge deal, and who wouldn’t want to share it with the world?

This is the reason, that this kind of exclusivity can bind and keep fashion enthusiasts thrilled to attend the showcase and the brand’s specific target market. So, next time you’re tempted to snap away at a fashion show, remember The Row’s quiet rebellion. Because in a world where everyone’s shouting for attention, sometimes it’s the silence that speaks the loudest.

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Fusion of Art and Fashion: A Collage of Realness

Jonathan Anderson’s collaboration with Richard Hawkins, a professor of painting and drawing at the University of California, is a brilliant fusion of art and fashion. Hawkins’ multi-layered paintings, influenced by pop culture, Greek and Roman statuary, and contemporary celebrity culture, served as the foundation for the audacious Loewe collection. The show itself unfolded as an exploration of Hawkins’ fixations, with digital screens resembling stained-glass windows showcasing Loewe’s celebrity ambassadors like Jamie Dornan.

Anderson’s approach of “collaged realness” is evident throughout the collection, deconstructing traditional silhouettes and challenging the conventional boundaries of masculinity. The garments, including scaled leather coats and beaded trousers, are imbued with a sense of kitschiness, offering a playful celebration of kink while maintaining sophistication.

Constructing a Narrative: Garments That Tell a Story

The collection is a testament to Anderson’s prowess in garment construction. Scaled leather coats, spray-painted moments before the show, beaded trousers, and bags adorned with Hawkins’ artwork demonstrate a commitment to pushing the boundaries of traditional fashion. The ‘one-piece’ look signifies Anderson’s understanding of the fluidity in modern masculinity, where definitions are no longer rigid. In a nod to the concept of ‘collaged realness,’ models strutted down the runway in leather cargo pants, baseball sneakers, and checkered shirts, offering a playful take on the irreverence of youth. The visual trick of trousers attached to socks and shoes reflects Anderson’s commentary on modern life as a continuous collage of algorithmic images shaping our perception. Figure 2.

Accessories: Elevating the Ensemble

The collection extends beyond clothing to include a diverse range of accessories. The fusion of high-end fashion with elements of streetwear, such as skater sneakers, boots and, tote bags adorned with glass bead artworks add a luxurious touch to the ensemble, showcasing Loewe’s evolution towards fashion’s forefront. Figure 3.

Venue and Installation: A Cathedral to Masculinity

The show’s venue serves as a conceptual backdrop—a strange cathedral to masculinity. ‘Stained-glass window’ screens, displayed self-portraits of Loewe’s male ambassadors and friends, creating an immersive experience. The juxtaposition of Hawkins’ collages capturing Roman statuary, French decadence, and contemporary celebrity culture sets the stage for a visual spectacle. The series of Hawkins paintings at the runway’s end, labelled the ‘altar’ by Anderson, reinforces the seamless integration of art and fashion. Figure 4.

A Star-Studded Affair: Celebrities Front and Centre

The front row of the show was a star-studded affair, with a multitude of handsome actors, including Jamie Dornan, Andrew Garfield, Nicholas Hoult, Zayn Malik, and Kit Connor. Celebrity ambassadors like Josh O’Connor, Taeyong, Manu Rios and Omar Apollo contributed to video collages, adding a personal touch to the narrative of the show. Anderson’s decision to incorporate selfies from actors like Jamie Dornan emphasized the integration of social media and celebrity culture into the collection’s narrative. Figure 5.

Voices of the Visionaries: Jonathan Anderson and Richard Hawkins Speak

Anderson’s creative vision for the FW24 collection reflects a keen observation of modern life as a “collage of media.” The show’s narrative, influenced by social media feeds, paparazzi shots, and celebrity culture, mirrors the levelling-off of contemporary culture. Anderson’s exploration of the “algorithm of masculinity” speaks to the ubiquity of visual information and its impact on our perceptions.

In Anderson’s words, “It’s 360 degrees—you can’t get away from media.” The trickery employed in the collection, such as trousers attached to socks and jackets fused with trousers, underscores his desire to reinterpret norms and have fun with fashion.

Hawkins, the artistic force behind the collection, reflects on over three decades of fascination with the male body and mythologies. “The altar at the end of the runway symbolizes the culmination of my fixations,” says Hawkins, emphasizing the connection between his artworks and the visual narrative presented by Loewe.

Conclusion: Loewe FW24 – A Bold Statement in Contemporary Fashion

The Loewe Fall/Winter 2024 men’s collection emerges as a bold statement in contemporary fashion, pushing the boundaries of conventional menswear. The collaboration brings forth a collection that celebrates individuality, challenges norms, and seamlessly blends art and fashion. From the intricate detailing of garments to the immersive venue design, every element of the show contributes to the narrative of a dynamic and evolving masculinity. As the fashion world continues to embrace diversity and creativity, Loewe stands at the forefront, showcasing the artistry that can be achieved through the fusion of pop culture and high fashion.

Reference

1. Sim, J. (2024). Watch the Loewe men’s fall/winter 2024 show here. [online] Vogue Singapore. Available at: https://vogue.sg/loewe-mens-fall-winter-2024-show/ [Accessed 22 Jan. 2024].
2. Socha, M. (2024). Loewe Men’s Fall 2024. [online] WWD. Available at: https://wwd.com/runway/mens-fall-2024/paris/loewe/review/ [Accessed 22 Jan. 2024].
3. updated, J.M. last (2024). Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2024: Loewe to Hermès. [online] wallpaper.com. Available at: https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion-beauty/paris-fashion-week-mens-aw-2024-best-of [Accessed 22 Jan. 2024].
4. Hypebeast. (2024). Jonathan Anderson Finds a New Algorithm for Masculinity With LOEWE FW24. [online] Available at: https://hypebeast.com/2024/1/loewe-jonathan-anderson-fall-winter-2024-paris-fashion-week-menswear-runway [Accessed 22 Jan. 2024].
5. MOWER, S. ed., (2024). Loewe FALL 2024 MENSWEAR. [online] VOGUE RUNWAY. Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-menswear/loewe [Accessed 21 Jan. 2024].

Images/Photographs

1. Sim, J. (2024). Watch the Loewe men’s fall/winter 2024 show here. [online] Vogue Singapore. Available at: https://vogue.sg/loewe-mens-fall-winter-2024-show/.
2. Christian, (2024). Loewe Fall/Winter 2024 – Paris Fashion Week Men’s – fashionotography. [online] Available at: https://www.fashionotography.com/loewe-fall-2024-paris-fashion-week-mens/ [Accessed 24 Jan. 2024].
3. Moss, Jack (2024). Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2024: Loewe to Hermès. [online] wallpaper.com. Available at: https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion-beauty/paris-fashion-week-mens-aw-2024-best-of.
4. kuwmanurios (2024). Manu Ríos becomes part of the Loewe FW24 backdrop at fashion week . Available at: https://twitter.com/kuwmanurios/status/1748699892304794041 [Accessed 22 Jan. 2024].
5. com. (2024). LOEWE. [online] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/loewe/.
6. Rooprai, R. (2024). Loewe. [online] The Impression. Available at: https://theimpression.com/loewe-fall-2024-mens-fashion-show-backstage/ [Accessed 22 Jan. 2024].

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Curated by Hamish Bowles and designed by Patrick Kinmonth and the architect Rooshad Shroff, the exhibition highlights the influence of India’s rich cultural heritage, textile and craft on global fashion over the last 200 years. Heritage is key for luxury, and brands are now optimising their heritage as a means to highlight brand ethos and provoke a sense of brand attachment. Featuring over 150 exhibits from 14 museums, 6 Indian cities, 10 international cities and 7 countries, the exhibition is a glamourous showcase of Indian themed creations by international designers. Whether it be Chanel’s brocade coat or Phulkari heels by Christian Louboutin, or a re-imagined saree by Yves Saint Laurent, it highlights India’s strong influence on western fashion. The exhibits detail the fabric, type, explain the illustration and also specify the date of first such work. These are largely loaned either from private collections of individuals or from museums such as New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art and Toronto’s Royal Ontario Museum. With the exhibition divided into several zones, it highlights Indian Silks and embroideries colliding with western tailoring in the 1830s, infusion with Italian fashion, with exhibits titled ‘Gathered in a Mughal Garden’, “The Hippie Trail”, “The Long Shadow of Muslin”, “The Journey of the Sari”, “The Great Exhibition London 1851” and so on. Not only are works of international designers showcased, iconic creations by Indian designers adorn sections of corridors gleaming with intricate detail and embroidery. These include works of Manish Malhotra, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Anuradha Vakil and others. A walk through this exhibition has one realise the impact and value of Indian heritage and tradition, one which is still much sought after by reputed international brands constantly seeking Indian artisans and their work to adorn the brand’s haute couture. 

As one of the two significant power-houses corporatizing Indian Fashion, Reliance Brands Limited (RBL) has, in the last few years, entered strategic partnerships with luxury home-grown designers such as Manish Malhotra, Anamika Khanna, Raghuvendra Rathore, Ritu Kumar, Rahul Mishra to name a few. It has also brought several international brands to India including Valentino, Balenciaga, Tiffany & Co. to cater Indian consumption choices which have over the years undergone international exposure. Reliance has also highlighted India’s artisanal products including handloom, clothing, textiles and handicrafts through ‘Swadesh’, artisan centric stores under the Reliance Foundation. These stores are selling the finest handicrafts ‘Handmade in India’ at the NMACC, showcasing Patola weaves to Venkatagiri, Tanjore Paintings, Blue pottery and much more. Indian handicrafts and handloom are considered the backbone of Indian rural economy since decades. Exports of handicrafts has seen a tremendous growth in the last decade – from USD 3.7 million in 2011 to USD 4.35 billion in 2022 indicating a global increase of demand for Indian handicrafts. The wave of sustainability has further shone light on handicrafts across the world. Aimed at bringing best of the world to India, and best of India to the world, the NMACC through its several initiatives is taking Indian fashion on a global platform. 

Legal Considerations

While the exhibition focuses on the cultural and artistic aspects of fashion, there are legal considerations involved in such events. Intellectual Property Rights (IPR) are a crucial legal aspect in the fashion industry. Designers need to ensure that they have obtained the necessary permissions and licenses to use Indian textiles, patterns, and motifs in their designs – particularly, in the context of Geographical Indication protections. Also, designers must respect the copyright, and trademarks associated with items intrinsic to India’s cultural heritage. Additionally, the exhibition curators need to obtain licenses and permissions from museums, private collectors, and designers to display their works.

Moreover, the exhibition involves collaborations between Indian designers and international brands, highlighting the importance of contracts and agreements in the fashion industry. Strategic partnerships between Reliance Brands and luxury home-grown designers require well-drafted contracts that define the rights and obligations of each party. These agreements may cover aspects such as intellectual property ownership, exclusivity, royalties, and distribution rights. Furthermore, the exhibition’s organizers must comply with legal requirements related to event management, including permits, licenses, and safety regulations. They need to ensure that the exhibition space meets fire safety standards, accessibility requirements, and any other local regulations governing public exhibitions.

In conclusion, while the ‘India in Fashion’ exhibition primarily celebrates the artistic and cultural aspects of Indian fashion, several legal considerations come into play. Intellectual property rights, protection of traditional crafts, contracts and agreements, and event management regulations are essential factors to be addressed to ensure a successful and legally compliant exhibition. By upholding these legal aspects, the exhibition contributes to the promotion and preservation of Indian fashion heritage while respecting the rights of designers, artisans, and the larger fashion community.

Authors:

Radha Khera, Managing Associate at Remfry & Sagar

Anuj Kumar, Founder & Editor-in-Chief, Fashion Law Journal

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