Fashion & Society | Fashion Law Journal https://fashionlawjournal.com/category/column/fashion-society/ Fashion Law and Industry Insights Thu, 21 May 2026 12:55:01 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=7.0 https://fashionlawjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/cropped-fashion-law-32x32.png Fashion & Society | Fashion Law Journal https://fashionlawjournal.com/category/column/fashion-society/ 32 32 The Royal Pop Resale Machine: What the Swatch x AP Frenzy Says About IP, Hype, and the Business of Flipping https://fashionlawjournal.com/the-royal-pop-resale-machine-what-the-swatch-x-ap-frenzy-really-says-about-ip-hype-and-the-business-of-flipping/ https://fashionlawjournal.com/the-royal-pop-resale-machine-what-the-swatch-x-ap-frenzy-really-says-about-ip-hype-and-the-business-of-flipping/#respond Thu, 21 May 2026 12:34:46 +0000 https://fashionlawjournal.com/?p=11606 When an “affordable AP” turns out to be a pocket watch, the resale market moves first, and the legal questions follow. The Swatch x Audemars Piguet collaboration was never going to land quietly. The second those two names appeared in the same sentence, the internet did what it always does with luxury-adjacent drops: it projected desire, inflated expectations, and converted anticipation into a market before most people had even seen the product in person. Swatch x Ap’s Royal Pop collection launched on May 16 as a set of eight bioceramic pocket watches combining Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak design language with

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When an “affordable AP” turns out to be a pocket watch, the resale market moves first, and the legal questions follow.

The Swatch x Audemars Piguet collaboration was never going to land quietly. The second those two names appeared in the same sentence, the internet did what it always does with luxury-adjacent drops: it projected desire, inflated expectations, and converted anticipation into a market before most people had even seen the product in person. Swatch x Ap’s Royal Pop collection launched on May 16 as a set of eight bioceramic pocket watches combining Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak design language with Swatch’s vintage POP concept, complete with hand-wound SISTEM51 movements, lanyards, and styling accessories.

That should have settled the matter.

It did not.

For a large part of the audience, “AP x Swatch” still read as shorthand for one thing: a relatively accessible gateway into Royal Oak symbolism. That expectation, even if not fully grounded in the product description, was powerful enough to create queues, panic, and immediate resale behaviour around a release that was expressly framed as a pocket-watch-style object rather than a standard wristwatch.

 

Credits: @swatch via Instagram

 

Swatch itself warned of crowd management issues, capped purchases at one watch per person per store per day, and noted that in some markets, queues beyond a certain size might not be accepted.

And that is where this stops being merely a watch story and becomes a fashion law story.

Because the most interesting part of Royal Pop is what people tried to do with the product once they got close to it: flip it, reframe it, upgrade it, and in some cases, imagine turning it into something commercially more desirable than what Swatch had actually sold.

That afterlife matters. In legal terms, the line between legitimate resale and problematic remarketing is often much thinner than consumers assume.

The Misunderstanding was Cultural

On paper, the product was clearly described. Swatch called the collection a run of “statement-making pocket watches designed for endless creative styling,” available only at selected stores, with accessories sold online. The watches came in Lépine and Savonnette formats, were designed to be worn or displayed in different ways, and were positioned as a playful collision of Pop Art, Royal Oak references, and Swatch’s own archive.

Credits: swatch

But product descriptions do not operate in a vacuum.

In the luxury and fashion ecosystem, consumers often respond not to what a product technically is, but to what the brand pairing culturally signifies.

“Audemars Piguet x Swatch” circulated online less as a nuanced design proposition and more as a fantasy of access.

That is what made the reaction so intense. The object may have been a pocket watch, but the desire around it was wristwatch desire: recognisability, status, scarcity, and proximity to an otherwise unreachable icon.

That gap between product reality and consumer expectation is important because it explains why the resale market kicked in so quickly. When a product disappoints a practical use case but still carries symbolic value, it often becomes even more attractive as a collectible or speculative asset. It no longer needs to function in the way people originally imagined. It only needs to retain enough brand heat to command a premium.

Hype is not separate from the resale economy. It feeds it.

That is exactly what happened here. Reports following the launch described significant secondary-market activity, with pieces and even full sets appearing quickly on resale platforms at prices far above retail. Reuters reported that the launch triggered a consumer frenzy as resale prices climbed, while other coverage noted that a full set of eight Royal Pop models sold for more than five times on the secondary market. Other reports said people lined up in major cities, and some aftermarket accessories were already being sold to turn the pocket-watch-style pieces into wristwatches.

This exposes a basic truth about contemporary drop culture: hype is emotional energy, but it is also infrastructure for profit.

Scarcity, real or perceived, creates a chain reaction. First come the fans, then the flippers, then the content creators, then the aftermarket sellers offering ways to “improve” or reinterpret the product. The object enters circulation almost immediately as both a cultural sign and a monetisable asset.

So asking whether Royal Pop is “real hype” or just “money-making” misses the point. In modern fashion and luxury drops, those two things are often inseparable.

Hype is what gives the resale economy its speed. The resale economy is what gives hype its measurable price. One legitimises the other.

From a legal standpoint, simple resale of a genuine product is usually not the problem. Once a branded good is lawfully sold, the buyer can generally resell it. That is the logic underlying the principle of exhaustion, also known in some systems as the first sale. The trademark owner’s control over distribution is not limitless after an authorised sale. But exhaustion is not a blank cheque. It protects resale, not every commercial reinvention of the product.

Reselling is one thing. Re-engineering brand meaning is another.

This is where fashion law starts to get much more interesting.

The moment a reseller or customiser goes beyond simply selling the original item and begins altering it, repackaging it, or presenting it as a commercially enhanced version, the legal analysis shifts.

The question is no longer only whether the underlying product is authentic. The question becomes whether the altered product is being marketed in a way that creates confusion, false association, or unfair commercial advantage built on the original brand’s goodwill.

That distinction has been tested directly in the watch industry. In a landmark 2024 decision, the Swiss Federal Supreme Court addressed a dispute involving Rolex and Artisans de Genève, a company known for customising luxury watches. The Court drew a careful line: customisation carried out at the request of an owner for the owner’s personal use could continue, but marketing or advertising modified branded watches in commerce without the trademark owner’s consent was treated as legally problematic.

The principle behind that ruling is not difficult to understand. A customer may have broad freedom to alter a product already owned, and a service provider may, in some cases, help facilitate that alteration. But when a business acquires branded products, modifies them, and then puts them back on the market while still trading on the original brand identity, the conduct starts to look less like private personalisation and more like unauthorised commercial exploitation of a trademark.

That is precisely why Royal Pop is such a useful case study. If an individual buyer chooses to experiment with straps, housings, or alternative ways to wear the watch for personal use, that is one category of conduct. If aftermarket sellers begin buying units, adapting them into wristwatch-style products, and marketing them in a way that leans heavily on “AP x Swatch” cachet, that is another.

The first sits closer to personal use. The second edges toward remarketing.

Customisation is where resale culture enters the legal grey zone

The appeal of customisation is easy to understand. It promises individuality in a market built on mass desire. It lets consumers believe they are not merely buying a hyped object but finishing it, elevating it, or making it more truly their own.

In fashion terms, it sounds creative. In commercial terms, it sounds like value addition. In legal terms, it can become messy very quickly.

The law does not treat all customisation equally. A private one-off service requested by a product owner is very different from a repeat commercial model built around modified branded goods. Courts and trademark owners are especially sensitive to the second model because it risks creating confusion over source, approval, collaboration, or sponsorship. Even where no one literally claims that the original brand authorised the modification, the overall presentation can still suggest endorsement.

That is why language matters so much in resale and aftermarket spaces. A seller may think it is harmless to market a modified Royal Pop as a more wearable, more functional, or more desirable version of the original. But if the marketing leans on Audemars Piguet prestige, Royal Oak associations, or the aura of the official collaboration while simultaneously changing the product’s form, it begins to extract commercial value from the trademark in a new way. That is still resale, but it also becomes the creation of a downstream product identity using someone else’s brand equity as fuel.

And this is exactly the kind of behaviour that fashion law has to watch closely.

In sectors driven by visual codes and symbolic value, infringement disputes rarely arise only from direct copying. They often arise from proximity; being close enough to a famous mark to borrow its cultural force while insisting the use is technically independent.

The real lesson of The Royal Pop

The Swatch x Audemars Piguet release says something larger about where fashion, watches, and culture are now. Ownership is no longer always the endpoint of desire. For a growing part of the market, acquiring the object is simply the first step in a longer chain of monetisation: resale, content, collecting, modification, or conversion into something else. The product is valuable not only for what it is, but for what it allows people to do next.

Swatch x AP
Credits: Swatch

That is why Royal Pop became bigger than its own design brief almost immediately. Swatch introduced a playful pocket-watch-style collaboration with strong archival references and strict purchase controls. The market responded by treating it as a scarcity event, a status object, and a possible raw material for further commercial creativity.

And that is where the law draws its line. Buyers can generally resell what they lawfully own. They may, in some circumstances, customise it for personal use. But once the product is pushed back into commerce in modified form, supported by branding cues that trade on the original mark’s reputation, the legal comfort disappears.

In that sense, Royal Pop is a reminder that the most valuable thing in fashion and luxury is rarely the object alone. It is the brand meaning attached to it.

And in the resale economy, everyone wants a share of that meaning; fans, flippers, customisers, and platforms alike.

The law’s job is to decide how far they can go before enthusiasm becomes exploitation.

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eBay’s Depop Acquisition: A Smart Move or a Desperate Grasp for Gen Z? https://fashionlawjournal.com/ebays-depop-acquisition-a-smart-move-or-a-desperate-grasp-for-gen-z/ https://fashionlawjournal.com/ebays-depop-acquisition-a-smart-move-or-a-desperate-grasp-for-gen-z/#respond Wed, 08 Apr 2026 18:34:09 +0000 https://fashionlawjournal.com/?p=11382 So, the eBay Depop deal just dropped a bombshell on the fashion resale scene. Dropping $1.2 billion to snag this Gen Z hotspot from Etsy? Yes, that’s bold… but is it genius or panic-buying for relevance? All I know is that this move seems to subtly indicate how we’re all rethinking spending, style, and sustainability. Let’s chat about what this really reveals: about how we’re all changing how we shop, spend, and flex style in a world obsessed with secondhand swagger. The Depop Deal: Why eBay Went All-In on Secondhand Cool eBay, the auction house grandpa of e-commerce, just dropped $1.2 billion cash

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So, the eBay Depop deal just dropped a bombshell on the fashion resale scene. Dropping $1.2 billion to snag this Gen Z hotspot from Etsy? Yes, that’s bold… but is it genius or panic-buying for relevance? All I know is that this move seems to subtly indicate how we’re all rethinking spending, style, and sustainability. Let’s chat about what this really reveals: about how we’re all changing how we shop, spend, and flex style in a world obsessed with secondhand swagger.

The Depop Deal: Why eBay Went All-In on Secondhand Cool

eBay, the auction house grandpa of e-commerce, just dropped $1.2 billion cash for Depop- a mobile-first app that’s basically an Instagram-laced thrift store. Depop’s stats show 7 million active buyers and 3 million sellers, with 90% under 34 (primarily Gen Z and young Millennials). Its U.S. GMV neared $1 billion in 2025, up 60% year-over-year. So why pay a premium? Because consumer wallets are voting with their feet (or thumbs in this instance) toward resale.

Fast fashion is losing its grip, and we can clearly see that with new green regulations, sustainability-focused fashion laws, etc. Post-pandemic, Gen Z paused impulse-buying Shein hauls. Instead, they’re hunting Depop for vintage Levi’s or indie streetwear that screams “me.” eBay’s fashion GMV already tops $10 billion annually (growing 10% YoY), but Depop injects fresh blood, sort of proving that the shift to circular spending is mainstream. Maybe eBay is admitting that people spend where value meets vibe?

Decoding Gen Z Wallets: The Real Why Behind the Resale Obsession

Let’s talk consumer behaviour 101: Depop users aren’t casual browsers. They log in daily, flipping pre-loved gems for profit, clout, and conscience. 39% of young shoppers hit social commerce for secondhand last year, per reports, drawn by affordability (items under $50 dominate), uniqueness (no duplicates in your feed), and eco-brags (“I saved a tee from landfill”). I can personally attest to the same, noting that my Screen Time on Vinted averaged 19 hours per week. 

And marketing’s cracked the code: TikTok lives and Insta Reels turn hauls into social proof. Gen Z spends 2x more time (and cash) on resale than legacy sites, prioritising self-expression over status logos. This comes after a shift in consumer behaviour following the slow death of micro-trends. People want to be more authentic instead of chasing every small trend that will cause a dent in their wallet. Compared to eBay’s older crowd chasing deals on toasters, this demo is fashion-forward, sustainability-savvy, and fickle. And the acquisition is hard evidence that spending habits are pivoting. Resale’s hitting $53.7 billion globally by 2026, growing 11% CAGR. People aren’t necessarily cutting back, but priorities have shifted in a world where inflation rises more than our jeans, so people are redirecting dollars smarter.

Culture Clash Incoming: Can eBay Keep the Gen Z Magic Alive?

Depop’s sauce was the social-first feeds, seller follows, and community chats. eBay’s a powerhouse, but it feels like a digital flea market. Post-deal, eBay vows to run Depop as a standalone brand, adding shipping perks and Authenticity Guarantees, which is smart since Gen Z loyalty hinges on feeling seen, not sold. But if you botch the culture? I guarantee users will bolt to Vinted or Poshmark.

From a consumer lens, this tests behavioural glue: People spend where they belong. Marketing that force-feeds corporate polish kills it (incoming rant on IRL marketing and influencer fatigue). 72% say secondhand stigma’s gone, but vibe dilution revives it. And eBay’s challenge is to prove they get the social job-to-be-done: not just transact, but participate in trend ecosystems.

Recommerce Battlefield: Depop’s Secret Weapons in the Mix

Resale’s on fire, projected to hit a massive $367 billion by 2029, growing twice as fast as the whole apparel world. You’ve got ThredUp, Poshmark, and The RealReal scrapping for every sale, but Depop? It’s got this killer Gen Z edge with its streetwear obsession and creator collabs, and now paired with eBay’s global muscle, they’re building a total powerhouse. The roadmap’s stacked: AI-powered recs that nail your style, cross-listings to flood more eyes, and influencer drops that’ll have everyone buzzing.

And the real proof is in how we’re shopping. Nearly 60% of folks are already planning secondhand splurges this year, chasing those affordable gems, the thrill of the treasure hunt, and that feel-good planet-saving vibe. Heck, even Boomers are jumping in. This deal just shines a spotlight on the big spending shift: with 38% of us tightening belts amid economic pinches, resale’s the ultimate hack: stylish, budget-smart, and zero guilt. Platforms that mix that social discovery magic with rock-solid trust in authenticity? They’re the winners. eBay’s move says it: consumers are all-in on brands riding this circular wave.

eBay’s Full Gen Z Playbook: Depop’s Just the Opener

This grabs the headlines, sure, but eBay’s not stopping at Depop. They’re stacking the deck with a whole playbook to win over Gen Z. Think anti-counterfeit AI that sniffs out fakes before they hit your feed, super-personalised recommendations that feel like they read your mind, and cosying up to influencers who actually get the vibe.

And honestly, it makes total sense. Consumers are done with knockoffs; surveys show 69% of us will ghost a site the second we spot something shady. Throw in those slick TikTok glow-ups to amp up the fun factor and sustainability badges that let you flex your eco-cred without even trying.

Depop just proves the whole thesis: spending’s evolved into this perfect mix of social buzz, planet-friendly choices, and straight-up savvy moves. And fast fashion? That’s so yesterday’s news; it’s out, and this circular wave is where the real party’s at.

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H&M and Stella McCartney Team Up for Sustainability Insights Board: Fresh Voices on Fashion’s Green Future https://fashionlawjournal.com/hm-and-stella-mccartney-team-up-for-sustainability-insights-board-fresh-voices-on-fashions-green-future/ https://fashionlawjournal.com/hm-and-stella-mccartney-team-up-for-sustainability-insights-board-fresh-voices-on-fashions-green-future/#respond Wed, 25 Mar 2026 08:11:39 +0000 https://fashionlawjournal.com/?p=11259 Well, my Fashion Friends, Big news from the sustainability front! H&M and Stella McCartney just launched their Insights Board, a super cool group of diverse voices kicking off conversations to push the industry toward real, actionable change. The board had its first in‑person meet in London this week, and it’s already sparking some honest chats about materials, circularity, and how brands can actually win back customer love for green fashion. This comes as part of their second collab (yay!), showing that these two powerhouses are serious about making sustainability feel fresh, not just another buzzword we’re all getting tired of. Cue Usher

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Well, my Fashion Friends, Big news from the sustainability front! H&M and Stella McCartney just launched their Insights Board, a super cool group of diverse voices kicking off conversations to push the industry toward real, actionable change. The board had its first in‑person meet in London this week, and it’s already sparking some honest chats about materials, circularity, and how brands can actually win back customer love for green fashion.

This comes as part of their second collab (yay!), showing that these two powerhouses are serious about making sustainability feel fresh, not just another buzzword we’re all getting tired of.

Cue Usher and let’s dive in!

H&M Stella McCartney Insights Board: Who’s On It and What’s the Vibe?

Let’s set the stage:

A room full of fresh perspectives: technologist Kiara Nirghin (sustainability innovator extraordinaire), model Amelia Grayfashion editor Susie Lau (aka Susie Bubble), Gurls Talk founder Adwoa Aboah, and singer/activist Anitta, all chatting with Stella herself, H&M experts, and moderated by industry strategist Julie Gilhart.

It’s not your typical stuffy board meeting. And the goal? Curiosity, listening, and bold ideas to tackle fashion’s big challenges like innovative materials, animal welfare, and transparent comms. Their London kickoff zeroed in on how sustainability shows up online, influences shoppers, and needs fact‑based stories to cut through the noise.

Stella puts it perfectly: “Fashion has an opportunity to lead with honesty… keeping sustainability front and centre in a way that sparks real dialogue and hope for change.” H&M CEO Daniel Ervér adds they’re “excited to connect different voices” and explore what’s possible together.

Why This Matters: Customer Love for Sustainable Fashion Is Back (Sort Of…)

Here’s the tea: shoppers are craving real sustainability, but they’re tired of greenwashing. Consumers want brands to prove their eco creds, yet trust is low when it’s all vague claims. This board is H&M and Stella’s way of saying, “Let’s listen to Gen Z, creators, and experts to figure out what actually resonates.

Think about it: Amelia Gray reps the next gen who grew up with TikTok trends and climate anxiety. Anitta brings global music vibes to show how culture shapes buying. Adwoa’s activism reminds us that fashion is a platform for change. It’s diverse AF, and that’s the magic.

Stella McCartney

First Meeting Highlights: Materials, Transparency, and No More Hype

At the London powwow, they dug into sustainable materials, circularity, innovation, and comms; agreeing that fact‑based, accessible info is key to rebuilding trust. No more “100% recycled” labels without proof. They want brands to show the data, tell the story simply, and link it to customer lives.

Kiara Nirghin shared: “Fashion is at a fascinating crossroads where science, innovation and creativity can come together to drive real change” Susie Lau wants sustainability “embedded in culture, not slogans.” Love that energy!

Insight: Boards like this could lead to tangible outcomes, such as H&M piloting new bio‑fabrics based on board ideas or Stella influencing supply chain shifts. It’s collaborative disruption at its best.

H&M and Stella McCartney Collab History: From Runway to Real Change

These two go way back. Their first drop in 2019 was a game‑changer: vegan leather, organic cotton, no fur/plastic. It sold out fast and proved green can be glamorous. Now, collab #2 brings this board to challenge norms and accelerate progress.

H&M’s pushing hard on circular goals (100% recycled/renewable by 2030), and Stella’s lifelong no‑cruelty stance makes them perfect partners.

Together, they’re proving fast fashion + luxury ethics = future‑proof business.

Fun Fact: Their past drops influenced millions (celeb fans like Dua Lipa rocking Stella x H&M). This board amps that up with Gen Z input.

Zoom out: sustainability fatigue is real, but 2026 is pivoting to “conscious cool”. Shoppers want:

  • Transparency: Traceability apps, blockchain for fibres.

  • Innovation: Mushroom leather, lab‑grown silk.

  • Community: Co‑creation with users (hello, Insights Board!).

Insight: Fast fashion’s under fire (H&M’s no stranger), but moves like this show adaptation. Expect more boards blending insiders + outsiders. Data says 65% of Gen Z skips brands without clear green proof. Stella’s clout + H&M’s scale = massive ripple effect.

Pro tip for brands: Ditch jargon. Say “this tee saved 2,500L of water”, and shoppers automatically connect.

Challenges Ahead: Greenwashing, Supply Chains, and Customer Buy‑In

Let’s be real now. Fashion’s eco journey has bumps. Supply chain opacity hides dirty secrets, and “sustainable” claims often flop without proof. The board’s tackling this head‑on: animal welfare, material innovation, and customer‑facing stories that stick.

Anitta nailed it: “Fashion is a language that connects people all over the world, just like music.” Adwoa adds it’s about self‑expression with purpose.

Insight: Watch for regulatory push: EU’s Green Claims Directive fines greenwashing. H&M/Stella could lead voluntary standards, boosting trust and sales (sustainable lines grow 28% faster per McKinsey).

What’s Next for H&M Stella McCartney Insights Board?

They’re committed to outcomes + action steps, so next meets will hit circularity, innovation, and more. Expect reports, pilots, or collabs born here. H&M’s teasing “disrupt what’s possible”, so maybe bio‑dyes or resale tech?

Reader takeaway: Love sustainable fashion? Follow this board. They’re voicing what we all want: honest, fun, planet‑friendly style.

This launch feels like a breath of fresh air, and is actual proof that big brands are listening.

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The Death of Trends: Has Individual Style Finally Triumphed? https://fashionlawjournal.com/the-death-of-trends-has-individual-style-finally-triumphed/ https://fashionlawjournal.com/the-death-of-trends-has-individual-style-finally-triumphed/#respond Tue, 24 Feb 2026 14:24:32 +0000 https://fashionlawjournal.com/?p=11203 Have you noticed a shift in the air? Perhaps you’ve felt it when browsing online shops, or simply walking down the street. The grip of iron-fisted trends seems to be loosening, giving way to something far more exciting: the unapologetic embrace of individual style. This “Untitled Note,” scribbled in the margins of fashion history, suggests a significant cultural change is underway, and maybe it’s time we explore why… The Rise of the Individual: Why Trends Are Fading Fast For years, fashion dictated what we should wear, often leading to homogenous looks that stifled creativity. But now, a growing desire for

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Have you noticed a shift in the air? Perhaps you’ve felt it when browsing online shops, or simply walking down the street. The grip of iron-fisted trends seems to be loosening, giving way to something far more exciting: the unapologetic embrace of individual style. This “Untitled Note,” scribbled in the margins of fashion history, suggests a significant cultural change is underway, and maybe it’s time we explore why…

The Rise of the Individual: Why Trends Are Fading Fast

For years, fashion dictated what we should wear, often leading to homogenous looks that stifled creativity. But now, a growing desire for authenticity and self-expression is pushing back against this rigid structure. You see it around you: people curating wardrobes that genuinely reflect their personalities, rather than blindly following the latest runway reports or what’s on their social media feed. The rise of vintage and second-hand clothing, the explosion of DIY fashion (Thank you Zara Larsson), and the increasing visibility of diverse body types and styles online all point to a fundamental shift.

Statement Pieces Reign Supreme: Originality Over Conformity

Think about the last time you saw someone truly turn heads with their outfit. Was it because they were wearing the “it” item of the season, or because they had expertly combined unexpected pieces to create a unique, unforgettable look? More often than not, it’s the latter. Statement pieces, to me, are bold items that scream personality, is now celebrated more than ever. People are actively seeking out clothing and accessories that tell a story, that spark conversations, and that set them apart from the crowd. This prioritisation of originality is a direct challenge to the cyclical nature of trends.

‘Devoid of Personality’: The Modern Critique of Trend Followers

There’s a growing sentiment and narrative, particularly among younger generations, that blindly following trends is, well, a bit boring. Social media, once a platform for showcasing the latest must-haves, is now also a breeding ground for critique. People are quick to call out outfits that feel inauthentic or “devoid of personality.” This shift in perception is powerful. It suggests that individuals are no longer content to be passive consumers; they want to be active creators of their own style narratives. The constant stream of influencer-driven trends has perhaps reached a saturation point, leading to a collective yearning for something more genuine.

The Illusion of Belonging: Trends as a False Community

Historically, trends have offered a sense of belonging. Wearing the same clothes as everyone else created a feeling of solidarity, a visual marker of shared identity (not the Carhartt or Stussy Community though… you guys rule). However, this sense of community can be superficial. It’s built on external validation, rather than a genuine connection.

Even within a trend, there’s always been a desire to stand out. People might adopt a particular style, but they’ll still add their own personal touches, whether it’s through accessories, colour palettes, or the way they style their hair. This highlights the paradox of trend-based identity: we want to belong, but we also want to be recognised as individuals. The problem is that trends often flatten individuality, making it harder to express our true selves. Now, more and more people are opting out of the trend cycle altogether, choosing instead to cultivate a style that is entirely their own.

2026: A Trendless Year? Early Signs of a Fashion Revolution

Okay, perhaps “trendless” is an exaggeration, but 2026 certainly feels different. The usual suspects, the major fashion houses and fast-fashion retailers, haven’t managed to dictate a single, overarching style direction. Instead, we’re seeing a multitude of micro-trends, each catering to a specific niche. This fragmentation of the fashion landscape is a sign that the power dynamic is shifting. Consumers are no longer passively accepting what they’re told to wear; they’re actively shaping the narrative themselves. There is a sense of liberation.

Nostalgia is a powerful force, and it’s playing a significant role in the current fashion landscape. The resurgence of 2016 styles, from chokers and slip dresses to bomber jackets and graphic tees, may not just be about revisiting the past. Maybe reclaiming a sense of familiarity and comfort in an uncertain world? Perhaps it’s a reaction to the hyper-digital present, a yearning for a simpler time? Or, could it simply be that those styles are, objectively, quite cool? Whatever the reason, the revival of 2016 fashion highlights the cyclical nature of style and the enduring appeal of vintage aesthetics.

Fashion as a Reflection of Society: What Our Style Choices Say About Us

Fashion isn’t just about clothes; it’s a mirror reflecting our society’s values, anxieties, and aspirations. The current emphasis on individual style speaks volumes about our desire for authenticity, our rejection of conformity, and our growing awareness of the environmental and social impact of the fashion industry.

Our clothes are a form of communication, a way of signalling our identity to the world. When we choose to embrace individual style, we’re making a statement about our values. We’re saying that we value originality, creativity, and self-expression. We’re also challenging the status quo, rejecting the notion that we need to conform to be accepted. This shift in attitude is connected to broader cultural trends, such as the rise of social activism, the increasing focus on mental health and well-being, and the growing awareness of environmental issues.

Embracing the Unique: A Call to Celebrate Individual Style

So, what does all of this mean for you?

It means that you have the freedom to express yourself through your clothing without feeling pressured to conform to the latest trends.

It means that you can curate a wardrobe that genuinely reflects your personality, your values, and your unique sense of style.

Embrace the power of the statement piece. Experiment with different colours, textures, and silhouettes. Don’t be afraid to break the rules and create your own. Let your clothes tell your story. Let them be a reflection of your authentic self. Celebrate the beauty of individuality.

This week’s column includes some FAQs from our readers:

Why are trends supposedly dying?

Trends are arguably dying because of a growing desire for authenticity and self-expression, the rise of vintage and second-hand clothing options, the explosion of DIY fashion, and the increasing visibility of diverse body types and styles online, all of which point to a fundamental shift away from mass-produced, homogenous looks. People are now seeking unique statement pieces that reflect their individual personalities rather than blindly following what’s dictated by major fashion houses or fast-fashion retailers. The constant stream of influencer-driven trends has perhaps reached a saturation point, leading to a collective yearning for something more genuine and personal.

Is there anything wrong with following trends?

There’s nothing inherently wrong with following trends if you genuinely enjoy them. The key is to be mindful of why you’re doing it. If you’re following trends simply to fit in or gain validation, it might be worth exploring your own personal style and preferences. The issue arises when trends become a substitute for self-expression, leading to a feeling of inauthenticity or a loss of individuality. Ultimately, fashion should be a source of joy and empowerment, not a source of pressure or anxiety.

How can I develop my own individual style?

Developing your own individual style is a journey of self-discovery. Start by exploring what you genuinely like and what makes you feel comfortable and confident. Look at your existing wardrobe and identify the pieces that you love wearing the most. Draw inspiration from various sources, such as vintage shops, street style blogs, art, music, and nature. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different colours, textures, and silhouettes. Most importantly, trust your instincts and have fun with the process. Remember, style is a form of self-expression, so let your personality shine through.

What is the future of fashion?

The future of fashion is likely to be more diverse, inclusive, and sustainable. We can expect to see a continued emphasis on individual style, with people curating wardrobes that reflect their unique personalities and values. Technology will also play a significant role, with innovations such as virtual try-on, AI-powered style recommendations, and 3D-printed clothing becoming more prevalent. Sustainability will be a key driver, with brands increasingly focusing on ethical sourcing, eco-friendly materials, and circular economy models. Ultimately, the future of fashion is about creating a more responsible and empowering industry that celebrates individuality and respects the planet.

What is the best way to use social media for fashion inspiration?

Social media can be a great source of fashion inspiration, but it’s important to be mindful of how you’re using it. Instead of blindly following trends or comparing yourself to others, focus on finding accounts that inspire you and align with your personal style. Look for diverse body types, styles, and perspectives. Use social media as a tool to discover new brands, designers, and styling techniques. Remember to unfollow accounts that make you feel insecure or inadequate. The goal is to use social media to cultivate your own unique style, not to simply replicate what you see online.

So, go forth and express yourself! The world needs your unique perspective, your individual flair, your unapologetic style. Don’t let anyone tell you what to wear. Create your own trends. Be your own masterpiece.

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Costume Art: The 2026 Met Gala and Fashion’s Unseen Mastery https://fashionlawjournal.com/costume-art-the-2026-met-gala-and-fashions-unseen-mastery/ https://fashionlawjournal.com/costume-art-the-2026-met-gala-and-fashions-unseen-mastery/#respond Thu, 20 Nov 2025 12:30:10 +0000 https://fashionlawjournal.com/?p=10994 Every year, the Met Gala arrives like a thunderclap in the fashion world; a spectacle of style, glamour, unforgettable boldness, and iconic creativity that captivates millions. But beneath the flashing cameras and red-carpet drama lies a quieter, more profound dialogue about fashion’s true place in culture. As someone who chronicles the link between fashion and society for my column here, the 2026 theme Costume Art feels like an overdue reckoning and a challenge to centuries-old assumptions that have relegated fashion to the fringes of “real art.” The Hierarchy of Art: Why Fashion Has Always Been Underestimated Fashion has long struggled

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Every year, the Met Gala arrives like a thunderclap in the fashion world; a spectacle of style, glamour, unforgettable boldness, and iconic creativity that captivates millions. But beneath the flashing cameras and red-carpet drama lies a quieter, more profound dialogue about fashion’s true place in culture. As someone who chronicles the link between fashion and society for my column here, the 2026 theme Costume Art feels like an overdue reckoning and a challenge to centuries-old assumptions that have relegated fashion to the fringes of “real art.”

The Hierarchy of Art: Why Fashion Has Always Been Underestimated

Fashion has long struggled for acknowledgement and recognition within the established art canon. For centuries, the painter’s brush, the sculptor’s chisel, and the musician’s score reigned supreme, while fashion was dismissed as a fleeting commodity, a superficial subset, a mere accessory to life rather than a form of intellectual or aesthetic expression. Art history’s fixation on permanence and “high” culture pushed fashion to the margins, seen as craft rather than art, industry rather than inspiration.

But this dismissal ignores fundamental truths: fashion is inherently artistic. It involves composition, colour, textures, innovation, and storytelling. Designing a garment or even styling a look is akin to painting with fabric and form, sculpting identity and cultural narrative. When we consider iconic pieces like the structural genius of Charles James’ ballgowns, the surreal visionary collaborations of Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dalí, or the boundary-pushing designs of Rei Kawakubo, we see undeniable artistry that transcends utility and function.

Costume Art: More Than a Theme; It’s a Challenge to Artistic Prejudice

The 2026 Met Gala’s Costume Art theme is a bold, timely challenge to the art world’s longstanding prejudices. Even though the dress code for the 2026 Gala has not been announced yet, the theme urges us to look beyond fashion’s surface–past the transient trends and consumer cycles–and recognise the artistry baked into every stitch, fold, and flourish. This theme aims to elevate fashion from “clothes” to a vital art form, emphasising that the way we adorn our bodies is a creative act just as profound as painting or sculpture. It’s beautiful, it’s raw, and it’s enticing.

Curator-in-Chief Andrew Bolton captured this essence when he said, “I wanted to focus on the centrality of the dressed body within the museum, connecting artistic representations of the body with fashion as an embodied art form.” His words remind us that clothing is not just an accessory to our bodies but a direct expression and extension of identity, culture, and art itself. It turns the body into a canvas, and at the Met, this idea will be celebrated through an exhibition opening come spring 2026, featuring pieces that exemplify the deep relationship between the human form and the garments that define it.

This exhibition will showcase how clothing transforms the body into an artwork, whether through sculptural couture, wearable sculptures, or fashion that challenges normative ideas of beauty and identity. It will explore the ways in which garments can embody cultural history, political messages, and social narratives, capturing the complex dialogue between art, fashion, and human experience. Fashion has always had ties to society; fashion changes as the economy, society, and politics change. The 2025 and 2026 themes uphold this, as well as the recent changes in style and trends

Fashion’s Dialogue with Society: The Artifice and Authenticity of Identity

In today’s hyperconnected world, discussions about cultural appropriation, identity politics, and representation have catapulted fashion to the forefront of societal and online discourse. The red carpet is no longer merely a parade of beauty; it is a powerful stage for political statements, reclamation of culture, and the contestation of norms.

The Met Gala, year after year, becomes a microcosm of these debates. Consider 2024’s Black Dandyism theme, which elevated expressions of Black identity and style to an art form, challenging racist cultural erasures. The theme’s Superfine: Tailoring Black Style showcased how tailored silhouettes became acts of resistance, elegance, and history.

Costume Art continues this trajectory by highlighting fashion’s capacity to carry memory, myth, and meaning. It celebrates how designers channel the surrealist brush of Elsa Schiaparelli or the sculptural mastery of Charles James, or reinterpret historical and contemporary sociopolitical themes through fabric and form. The exhibition aims to deepen our understanding of the “indivisible connection between our bodies and the clothes we wear,” as Bolton emphasises. Clothes, in this context, are not mere covers but are expressions of our lived experience, embracing ageing, gender, cultural identity, and societal values.

The Body as Living Canvas: Where Costume Meets Embodiment

Andrew Bolton’s vision: “the centrality of the dressed body within the museum connecting artistic representations of the body with fashion as an embodied art form” underscores that clothing is not just ornamentation but is an ongoing dialogue with our physical and emotional selves. The exhibition will challenge the tendency to abstract or glorify the body, instead celebrating its diversity and vulnerability. It champions garments that reflect age, gender, body types, and cultural backgrounds, emphasising that fashion’s true artistry lies in its capacity to mirror human reality.

This focus on embodiment also shifts the conversation around beauty, which is a core and paramount theme of artistic expression. With displays that include ageing and pregnant bodies, as well as diverse physiques, the exhibit will openly challenge traditional standards of beauty, advocating a broader, more inclusive definition of aesthetic excellence.

Lessons from the Red Carpet: When Fashion Transforms into Performance

The Met Gala’s red carpet is fashion’s grand theatre. It’s where we witness designers and celebrities collaborate to produce living artworks that narrate complex ideas. Some looks pay explicit homage to art movements like Surrealism or Pop Art; others convey political and personal statements and narratives through colour, shape, and symbolism.

Recall Rihanna’s Guo Pei gown at the 2015 China: Through the Looking Glass Gala, a majestic yellow masterpiece embroidered with floral motifs and weighing over 50 pounds, exemplifying craftsmanship and cultural storytelling. Or Lady Gaga’s 2019 Camp performance, a theatrical sequence where she shed layers of outrageous outfits: each a statement on identity, artifice, and creation.

costume art
Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images

These moments fortify that fashion (like art) is performative, provocative, and deeply expressive. The Costume Art theme will challenge designers and celebrities to push beyond fashion, as fashion, urging them to craft visual narratives rooted in history, mythology, and societal issues.

Fashion and the Digital Age: Online Debate and Society’s Engagement

Amidst this, the ongoing social media discourse is vital. Conversations about cultural appropriation, authenticity, and the politics of representation animate platforms like Twitter and TikTok. Each viral look sparks debate about what constitutes art and what crosses the line into cultural insensitivity.

Fashion’s digital democratisation allows marginalised voices to critique and reshape the narrative, challenging the privileging of “high art” standards. The Costume Art theme acts as a rallying cry for that discussion: celebrating diverse stories, artistic innovation, and the vital significance of clothing as cultural expression.

Toward a Broader Art History

The enduring struggle is: Why is fashion still considered separate from traditional art? This question echoes in galleries, museums, and classrooms alike. As the costume collections grow in prominence, it’s clear that the art world might hopefully expand its definition to include fashion as a dynamic, living art form that evolves with society.

The Costume Art exhibition at the Met will do more than showcase beautiful clothes; it will challenge us to see fashion as a vital, expressive, and transformative artistic language. Its influence extends beyond aesthetics, shaping cultural dialogue, identity formation, and societal change.

Closing Reflection: What the Future Holds

The 2026 Met Gala, with its Costume Art theme, is set to be more than a spectacular dress-up and, hopefully, a statement about the power of fashion to reflect its stance in society. As I watch the preparations unfold, I see it as a moment of breakthrough: fashion finally stepping into the art world’s heart, embracing its role as a conduit of cultural memory, artistic expression, and individual identity.

More than glamour, this will be an act of cultural reclamation and an affirmation that clothing is art, and that the artistry of fashion deserves recognition, reflection, and respect. This is the year fashion meets art in a profound way, and I believe this dialogue, sparked by the Costume Art theme, will resonate far beyond the red carpet.

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The Middle Class Mirage: Is Affordable Fashion Just an Illusion? https://fashionlawjournal.com/the-middle-class-mirage-is-affordable-fashion-just-an-illusion/ https://fashionlawjournal.com/the-middle-class-mirage-is-affordable-fashion-just-an-illusion/#respond Wed, 12 Nov 2025 06:14:05 +0000 https://fashionlawjournal.com/?p=10947 When I first moved to London, the city’s dizzying cost-of-living was a shock to the system. I’d step off the bus, then hop on the Metropolitan line, having already splurged on a cheeky Blank Street iced coffee, only to find out that getting to a Zara store cost more than the Zara shirt itself. It was easier to spot a random pigeon in a bowtie than it was to spot a true bargain in Oxford Street. These days, I’m not alone in feeling the pinch; the “cost of being stylish” is something even High Street can’t hide from anymore. With

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When I first moved to London, the city’s dizzying cost-of-living was a shock to the system. I’d step off the bus, then hop on the Metropolitan line, having already splurged on a cheeky Blank Street iced coffee, only to find out that getting to a Zara store cost more than the Zara shirt itself. It was easier to spot a random pigeon in a bowtie than it was to spot a true bargain in Oxford Street. These days, I’m not alone in feeling the pinch; the “cost of being stylish” is something even High Street can’t hide from anymore.

With every trip to the supermarket or click on the energy bill comes the same question:

Can I actually afford to keep up with fashion?

For many, it feels like dressing well is actually becoming a luxury only the very well-off, or the ‘ultra-comfortable’, can enjoy. And it’s not just wardrobe dilemmas either: this crisis is reshaping how we think about value, style, and social responsibility in fashion.

Wondering how? Cue Usher and let’s dive in. 

Inflation, Income Stagnation, and the Fight for Fashion

Let’s be honest: inflation is the villain that never leaves the party. According to recent data, UK clothing and footwear prices have crept steadily upwards this year, squeezing household budgets. When every pound spent needs to stretch, clothing drops further down the buying list. More and more of us are delaying or ditching “just-because” shopping, holding onto old favourites, or seeking out creative alternatives like swaps, and secondhand and thrifting apps.

Recent industry research from Deloitte shows that consumers across all age groups (especially younger shoppers) are becoming more price sensitive than ever before, often treating new clothes as occasional indulgences rather than routine purchases.

The effects aren’t just anecdotal. Over 60% of consumers globally say they are reducing luxury fashion purchases due to inflation, and 75% report increased fast fashion consumption to make ends meet. Even among my own friends, our favourite post-work rituals: browsing for a “treat yourself” outfit or splurging on a limited-edition gloss, have given way to group chats about the true cost of clothes and whether another branded advent calendar is worth the hype.​

Advent Calendars, Beauty, and the Value Reckoning

Let’s talk about beauty advent calendars: the “it” gift of recent years, that are slowly creeping up after the Halloween decorations have been stored away. Once upon a time, these mammoth boxes bursting with skincare and mini-makeup were snapped up like secret festival tickets. But this year, as prices for everything soared, even the most loyal “calendar collectors” started doing the maths. “Is this actually worth the £400?” an influencer friend of mine wondered aloud in her TikTok review, weighing the value of tiny serums against her soaring heating bill.

It’s not just TikTok chatter. According to Vogue and Statista, brands like Benefit and Charlotte Tilbury saw sell-out launches, but consumer sentiment is shifting fast as scrutiny over value grows and social feeds are full of “Is it worth it?” breakdowns. I’ve noticed my own group of beauty-obsessed friends are now sharing links comparing advent calendar content to actual retail prices; nothing gets a free pass anymore, PR samples or not. If we do recommend something, it’s because we truly think it’s worth every penny.​

Fast Fashion: Temporary Salvation or Ethical Trap?

So where do most of us turn? Fast fashion, of course. Retailers like Zara and H&M, once the champions of “accessible style”, now juggle between fighting price hikes and facing their own supply chain disruptions. Their secret? Ultra-efficient production and working on wafer-thin margins mean their prices rise more slowly than luxury labels’. But even fast fashion is inching upwards; Boohoo and ASOS raised prices this year thanks to climbing material and shipping costs.​

The catch? The more we chase affordability, the more we risk propping up a system that underpays workers and trashes the planet. The Ellen MacArthur Foundation warns us that fashion churn creates one truckload of textile waste every second, much of it from brands selling on volume, not value. Inflation may have made fast fashion a financial lifeboat for some, but the cost is being outsourced elsewhere: to garment workers, to the environment, and, ultimately, to us as future inheritors of a damaged planet.

Sometimes I think back to when I was living in London: seeing the endless lines at Primark yet hearing the same people talk about “eco-friendly” shopping the next day. It’s hypocrisy clothed in the reality of modern pressures. Cheap clothes and eco values are seldom a neat fit.

Even Luxury Isn’t Immune (and Aspirational Shoppers Are Staying Home)

Contrary to popular belief, luxury fashion houses aren’t immune to the pinch. Bain & Company highlights that the post-pandemic boom has plateaued; even traditional big spenders are starting to hesitate, especially those “aspirational” shoppers: middle-class consumers who used to save up for the occasional treat from brands like Burberry or Gucci. More exclusive experiences and personalised shopping are their new tactics, but it’s a tough balancing act as price hikes risk alienating even their base.​

Meanwhile, high-profile influencer gifting and over-the-top product drops are facing backlash, with consumers and professional reviewers calling out poor value and lack of transparency. I’ve seen beauty bloggers send back PR “gift” boxes because, as they say, “If I wouldn’t buy it for myself, why would I encourage my followers?”, or participating in waste management, “Why did X brand send me 40 shades of foundation? What will I do with the rest, it seems like a waste.”

Resale, Repairs, and a Return to Real Value

So what’s actually working? Secondhand style and wardrobe creativity. Online resale platforms like Vinted and Depop, once the side hustle for “thrifty” students, are now mainstream. Vinted alone has doubled its UK user base since 2020, showing that the drive for value is inseparable from an appetite for individual style and social responsibility. Clothing swaps, repair cafes, and DIY upcycling projects are everywhere. What used to be called “making do” is now a badge of honour.​

Renting is also on the rise; for those rare nights out or weddings, it’s often cheaper (and more sustainable) to borrow than buy. Subscriptions sending out curated secondhand pieces or “re-loved” designer wear are letting more of us play with style without the burden of ownership costs.

Redefining Affordable (and Responsible) Fashion

Let’s face it: “affordable” now means more than a low sticker price. We can see it all around us; consumers, despite inflation, are actively searching for quality over quantity, durability over disposability, and ethics over exploitation. Whether it’s supporting a local brand that sews in living wages or investing in items that last longer (even if it means buying fewer things), the idea of “value” in fashion is being thoroughly redefined.​

Fashion law and regulation will have to keep pace, too. From tighter disclosure requirements (think new EU labelling and eco transparency rules) to more robust labour protection standards in global supply chains, the push for industry-wide accountability is only accelerating. Young people, especially, won’t let brands backslide: a fact that’s apparent in every viral social media takedown of greenwashing claims.​

My Two Cents (Why This Crisis Might Actually Be a Turning Point)

I don’t think we’ll ever go back to the days of mindless hauls or once-a-week Zara trips. Inflation has forced all of us, regardless of income, to re-examine what fashion means and who gets to participate in it. Style isn’t going extinct; it’s actually getting more creative, more collaborative, and, in a way, yes, more critical.

In the past years, I learned that sometimes the journey to the shop costs more than what you bring home. These days, my wardrobe glows with carefully chosen secondhand treasures, gifts with meaning, and a handful of investments that will outlast any trend. Makeup advent calendars? Only the ones with real value and real joy (P. Louise) are worth shouting about, not just unboxing.

So, is affordable fashion an illusion for the middle class? Maybe. But it’s also a wake-up call and a reason to demand better from brands, lawmakers, and ourselves. The “middle class mirage” is real, but so is our power to remake the industry from the closet up.

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Sustainability Was Never a Trend: Why Young People Are Leading the Sustainable Fashion Revolution, and Why It Matters to All of Us https://fashionlawjournal.com/sustainability-was-never-a-trend-why-young-people-are-leading-the-sustainable-fashion-revolution-and-why-it-matters-to-all-of-us/ https://fashionlawjournal.com/sustainability-was-never-a-trend-why-young-people-are-leading-the-sustainable-fashion-revolution-and-why-it-matters-to-all-of-us/#respond Thu, 06 Nov 2025 08:30:48 +0000 https://fashionlawjournal.com/?p=10941 Sustainable fashion is no longer just a buzzword thrown around by influencers or a niche market in eco-friendly boutiques. It’s a movement fueled by younger generations who don’t just want to look good; they want to feel good about what they wear, how it’s made, and the planet it leaves behind. And honestly, it’s about time. From Fast Fashion to Mindful Wardrobes: A Generational Shift Gone are the days when “ethical clothing” meant frumpy hemp trousers or bulky silhouettes. Today’s young consumers (Gen Z and Millennials, yes, Millennials too) are reshaping what sustainability means in fashion. Thanks to social media, viral

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Sustainable fashion is no longer just a buzzword thrown around by influencers or a niche market in eco-friendly boutiques. It’s a movement fueled by younger generations who don’t just want to look good; they want to feel good about what they wear, how it’s made, and the planet it leaves behind.

And honestly, it’s about time.

From Fast Fashion to Mindful Wardrobes: A Generational Shift

Gone are the days when “ethical clothing” meant frumpy hemp trousers or bulky silhouettes. Today’s young consumers (Gen Z and Millennials, yes, Millennials too) are reshaping what sustainability means in fashion. Thanks to social media, viral documentaries, and grassroots activism, we’ve been exposed to the ugly truths behind fast fashion: mountains of textile waste choking landfills, dyeing processes poisoning waterways, and, most heartbreakingly, exploitive labour practices putting real lives at risk. Scrolling on social media these days leaves you feeling sick.

We’ve grown up watching the environmental clock tick loudly and understanding, perhaps more than any generation before, that our consumption choices are acts of collective responsibility. This isn’t just about buying a piece of clothing because one shirt won’t hurt, right? Wrong. It’s a stance countering the massive carbon footprint and social costs of what we wear. Online commentary echoes this sentiment: younger shoppers are far more likely to prioritise sustainability when making purchases compared to their elders. The stakes? We’re the generation inheriting the planet and the industry it supports.

The Legal Loom: Sustainability Intertwined with Fashion Law

Now here’s where fashion meets law: sustainable fashion isn’t just about eco-friendly materials, it’s about ethical labour standards, fair wages, safe workplaces, and transparent supply chains. Many young consumers demand full accountability from brands: where are the clothes made, who made them, and under what conditions? Such concerns have led to strengthened laws and initiatives worldwide, like France’s Anti-Waste and Circular Economy Law, the EU’s rules to reduce textile waste, and many other laws and regulations putting legal pressure on fashion companies to clean up their act.

These regulations don’t just protect workers, but empower consumers to make better choices. And as consumers, we hold the power to demand fair practices, pushing brands beyond greenwashed marketing to deep, systemic change.

Authenticity in the Age of the Algorithm

If social media amplified anything, it’s our collective sniff test for “authenticity.” We see through brands that pay lip service to sustainability yet engage in fast fashion’s worst abuses. The rise of resale platforms such as Depop and Vinted demonstrates how younger generations are not only buying differently but also circulating and valuing clothes differently, in turn extending garment lifecycles, reducing waste, and promoting a circular fashion economy.

Meanwhile, influencers and activists expose brands’ greenwashing at record speed, holding them accountable in public forums. This transparency, combined with our desire for individuality and clothing that reflects personal values, redefines what it means to be fashionable.

Practical Steps: From Awareness to Action

Being sustainable can sound daunting, but changing our wardrobes doesn’t require a complete upheaval overnight. Simple steps (buy less, choose quality, thrift more, support brands with transparent ethics, care for clothes longer) can collectively shift the industry’s trajectory. Prioritising materials like organic cotton, recycled fibres, or cutting-edge innovations such as Piñatex (pineapple leather) or Mylo (mushroom leather) shows consumers wield influence even over technical advances, affecting what science and nature marry to create.

Why This Matters Beyond Fashion

Sustainable fashion’s appeal to younger generations isn’t only ecological; it’s social justice. The shocking Rana Plaza tragedy still haunts us, reminding us that behind every garment are human rights that matter deeply. Fair wages, healthy working environments, and the eradication of forced labour remain core issues that fashion law must address. Young consumers’ insistence on ethical production aligns with these values and seeks to end centuries of exploitative practices.

This broader view, a.k.a. fashion as a reflection of society’s values and laws, is critical. It’s why your choice of brand or garment can be more than just style; it can truly be a vote for a better world.

In Conclusion: The Future Woven by Conscious Youth

Sustainable fashion is a revolution quietly powered by younger generations who demand more than cheap, fast, disposable clothing. We want lasting quality, social accountability, and genuine respect for the planet. And through fashion law, consumer activism, and creative innovation, this generation is stitching a future where style and conscience coexist beautifully.

So yes, this obsession with sustainable fashion is worth it. Because the planet we save and the lives we respect today shape the wardrobes and world of tomorrow.

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Fame, Fashion, and the Creative Director Shuffle: Why Musicians Are Running Luxury Labels https://fashionlawjournal.com/fame-fashion-and-the-creative-director-shuffle-why-musicians-are-running-luxury-labels/ https://fashionlawjournal.com/fame-fashion-and-the-creative-director-shuffle-why-musicians-are-running-luxury-labels/#respond Tue, 28 Oct 2025 16:05:43 +0000 https://fashionlawjournal.com/?p=10906 The fashion world is obsessed with creative directors, and lately, it’s equally obsessed with celebrities, particularly famous musicians, stepping into the role. From Jaden Smith’s bold appointment at Louboutin to SZA’s new gig at Vans and Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton, it seems every luxury house wants a slice of cultural relevance and fresh energy. But what’s driving this revolving door? Is celebrity star power a shortcut to sales, or does it risk diluting brand identity?​ The Allure (and Risks) of Celebrity: It’s More Than Buzz Celebrities have shaped fashion trends for decades, but the shift from campaign faces to

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The fashion world is obsessed with creative directors, and lately, it’s equally obsessed with celebrities, particularly famous musicians, stepping into the role. From Jaden Smith’s bold appointment at Louboutin to SZA’s new gig at Vans and Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton, it seems every luxury house wants a slice of cultural relevance and fresh energy. But what’s driving this revolving door? Is celebrity star power a shortcut to sales, or does it risk diluting brand identity?​

The Allure (and Risks) of Celebrity: It’s More Than Buzz

Celebrities have shaped fashion trends for decades, but the shift from campaign faces to creative leaders marks a new phase. Brands increasingly want more than a famous face; they want a vision, a following, and instant engagement. For luxury houses facing stagnant growth or relevance crises, a celebrity appointment is seen as an immediate fix: a way to spark viral buzz, spike press coverage, and drive renewed interest.​

Yet, as Shelton Boyd-Griffith and other critics point out, the appointment of musicians and stars isn’t always about the clothes; it’s about the headlines. A-listers bring a loyal fanbase and cultural cachet that can generate buzz. But does that translate into sales? Not always, especially in a luxury market where depth of design and heritage matter.

The Creative Director’s Job: Far More Than Style

A creative director’s real value lies in storytelling, team-building, and curating collections that resonate with the brand’s ethos—skills not every celebrity can claim. The best musicians-turned-creatives (Pharrell at Louis Vuitton or Rihanna at Puma) succeed not just with style, but with vision, leadership, and hands-on design that elevates both brand and culture. When the fit is authentic, results can be huge: Puma’s Fenty collaboration drove over $1 billion in first-year revenue.​

Conversely, mismatches (Cardi B at Playboy, for example) reveal the risks: diluted identity, audience confusion, and limited impact, regardless of a celebrity’s popularity.

Why Musicians, and Why Now?

Musicians are seen as natural fits for creative director roles; they understand rhythm, narrative, and personal branding. Their public personas and self-expression translate well to designing collections and championing brand ethos. Music and fashion constantly overlap, with artists often driving streetwear and luxury trends.​

But not every musician is a designer. In an era shaped by algorithms and rapid trend cycles, brands bet on musicians hoping their risk-taking energy ignites innovation. Whether that risk is sustainable, and whether it actually moves product, remains up for debate.

Oversaturation and Authenticity: The Balancing Act

The flood of celebrity creative directors risks oversaturation: too many partnerships can make endorsements feel less genuine. Consumers want real connection and transparent practices. Brands must strike a balance: leveraging star power without losing legacy, making sure that collaborations don’t overpower the house’s DNA.

Legacy and Ethics: Can Star Power Go Beyond Branding?

Enduring partnerships set benchmarks in sustainability and ethics. Stella McCartney’s eco-championing brand and Emma Watson’s advocacy for ethical labels showcase how celebrities as creative directors can shape multi-year change, not just short-term sales.

Yet, most celebrity appointments (especially in the luxury sphere) are hard to quantify financially. The return depends on market fit, authenticity, and the depth of collaboration.

So, What’s Next?

Fashion’s fascination with celebrity creative directors reflects a real crisis: luxury houses battling for relevance amid changing consumer habits and social media noise. Musicians offer risk, buzz, and cultural currency. But in an industry that still values craft and heritage, the pendulum could swing back to technical designers. For now, the mix of fame and creative leadership remains fashion’s most compelling (and controversial) experiment.

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Who Gets to Be Pleased? Victoria’s Secret, Society, and the Impossible Quest for Consensus https://fashionlawjournal.com/who-gets-to-be-pleased-victorias-secret-society-and-the-impossible-quest-for-consensus/ https://fashionlawjournal.com/who-gets-to-be-pleased-victorias-secret-society-and-the-impossible-quest-for-consensus/#respond Fri, 17 Oct 2025 16:45:52 +0000 https://fashionlawjournal.com/?p=10876 Last night, the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show returned; a splashy, highly anticipated event often dubbed the “Girls’ Super Bowl“, sort of how the Dyson is a woman’s equivalent to a PS5. After its 2019 cancellation and a much-hyped reboot in 2024, the world waited to see what the 2025 show would deliver: a promise of new inclusivity, viral stars, and global musical acts like TWICE, Madison Beer, Missy Elliott, and Karol G. But as the glitter settled, one thing became clear: you just can’t please everyone.​ The Show as a Mirror: Glamour, Grievances, and Growing Pains Online reactions are a

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Last night, the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show returned; a splashy, highly anticipated event often dubbed the “Girls’ Super Bowl“, sort of how the Dyson is a woman’s equivalent to a PS5. After its 2019 cancellation and a much-hyped reboot in 2024, the world waited to see what the 2025 show would deliver: a promise of new inclusivity, viral stars, and global musical acts like TWICE, Madison Beer, Missy Elliott, and Karol G.

Valentina Castro, Iris Law, Luna Yohannan, Quenlin Blackwell, Summer Dirx, Chou Tzu-yu, Josey Muckosky, Im Na-yeon, Barbie Ferreira, Momo, Ashlyn Erickson, Yoon Young Bae, Lila Moss, Daniella Halfon, Suni Lee | Credits: Getty Images

But as the glitter settled, one thing became clear: you just can’t please everyone.​

The Show as a Mirror: Glamour, Grievances, and Growing Pains

Online reactions are a masterclass in contradiction. Last year, some fans mourned the loss of the old bombshell blowout hair and maximalist fantasy wings, yearning for the “impossible” glamour of past Angels. And then they cheered for this year’s comeback looks and relatable moments while simultaneously slamming them for “cheapening” the show’s reputation.

Want more sparkle? You’ll get a complaint about excess.

Miss the sparkle? The new wings are called lazy, and the fantasy bra isn’t expensive enough.

And the cast, oh the cast — which, remarkably, now includes athletes (Angel Reese), influencers (Gabriela Moura, Quenlin Blackwell), Olympic gold-medalists (Suni Lee), and legacy supermodels (Adriana Lima, Gigi Hadid, Anok Yai) — is an ongoing battleground. Last year, critics bemoaned influencers for taking space from “real” models; this year, some praise their presence while others doubled down, arguing that VS models should represent “unattainable” standards, a fantasy worth striving (and suffering) for.​

Alex Consani, Quenlin Blackwell | Credits: Getty Images

Music, Moments, and More: You Really Can’t Win

Music choices aren’t immune to this cycle. Madison Beer was lauded for fitting the historic VS aesthetic, but netizens wanted Tate McRae or Sabrina Carpenter for “perfect” pop vibes. Some fans were excited for TWICE’s crossover performance, but harsh criticism followed, particularly of the group’s live vocals.

It’s a pattern: last year, a group was slammed, this year they’re praised, next year the cycle repeats.​ Who knows what will happen?

Frustratingly, even wholesome moments fuel the discourse, like the tradition of Dylan Sprouse supporting his partner Barbara Sprouse from the front row, generating both awws and eye-rolls about “performative support”. Emma Beddington was right, advice pollution is a real thing.

The Real Issue: Societal Discontent and Shifting Standards

At its core, the fashion show’s controversy isn’t just about the models or the music. It’s about society’s ever-shifting yardsticks and the digital age’s appetite for debate. The runway becomes a lightning rod for bigger tensions: beauty standards, inclusivity, authenticity, and the fantasy that someone somewhere can finally “get it right.”

When VS focused on a single type of body, tall, ultra-thin, and white, there was rightful outrage about exclusion. Now, with more racial diversity and incremental size representation, some argue it’s not enough, while others claim the brand has lost its aspirational identity. The same crowd that called for change demands tradition; those who loved the old models want more from the new. It’s not just fashion; it’s a reflection of our societal ambivalence about progress.

Barbara Sprouse | Credits: FilmMagic

The Takeaway: Pleasing Everyone is a Mirage

Digital culture amplifies these contradictions. Social feeds and comment sections cycle between nostalgia for the “glory days” and applause for disruption, backlash against inclusivity and campaigns for relatability, praise and vitriol often aimed at the same moment. Each change sparks both celebration and crisis.

Victoria’s Secret, like many cultural institutions, is stuck in a feedback loop: evolve and face backlash, stay stagnant and risk irrelevance. The real answer isn’t about lace, wings, or who walks the runway. It’s about the impossibility of meeting the needs of every audience, and the potential beauty in embracing imperfection, open-ended progress, and representation that’s almost always “not enough yet.”​

The 2025 fashion show isn’t a verdict on Victoria’s Secret alone; it’s an ongoing conversation about what society wants, expects, and demands. For now, it seems pleasing everyone is beyond anyone’s reach, but maybe the dialogue itself is the point.

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The New Dress Code: Why Men’s Skirts Signal Progress, Not Provocation https://fashionlawjournal.com/the-new-dress-code-why-mens-skirts-signal-progress-not-provocation/ https://fashionlawjournal.com/the-new-dress-code-why-mens-skirts-signal-progress-not-provocation/#respond Tue, 14 Oct 2025 12:07:02 +0000 https://fashionlawjournal.com/?p=10866 For centuries, society dictated what was “appropriate” for men and women to wear. But in today’s global fashion landscape, these old rules are dissolving. Men pairing sneakers with pleated skirts or donning kilts at formal events don’t just catch attention; they embody a seismic shift in how we define gender, self-expression, and personal freedom. Skirts for Men: From Taboo to Trending The sight of men wearing skirts no longer shocks the way it once did. On runways, red carpets, in music videos, and city streets from Seoul to London, skirts on men are increasingly accepted, and even admired. The change

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For centuries, society dictated what was “appropriate” for men and women to wear. But in today’s global fashion landscape, these old rules are dissolving. Men pairing sneakers with pleated skirts or donning kilts at formal events don’t just catch attention; they embody a seismic shift in how we define gender, self-expression, and personal freedom.

Skirts for Men: From Taboo to Trending

The sight of men wearing skirts no longer shocks the way it once did. On runways, red carpets, in music videos, and city streets from Seoul to London, skirts on men are increasingly accepted, and even admired. The change is so pronounced that media outlets now urge readers to “drop the taboo” and embrace skirts as just another stylish wardrobe choice.

This is not about fleeting trends or one-off provocations. Social media, fashion influencers, and a new wave of designers have pushed the skirt into a spotlight where it’s not just accepted, but celebrated. Young men are finding inspiration in celebrities and public figures who openly challenge traditional masculinity, while older generations recall that centuries ago, men’s skirts and robes were historically common around the world.

Why the Change? Society, Comfort, and Self-Expression

Society itself is evolving. As conversations around gender, identity, and acceptance have moved to the mainstream, the boundaries that once hemmed in “men’s” and “women’s” clothing are fading. Fashion, always a reflection of social change, is now an arena where comfort, creativity, and authenticity matter just as much as convention.

  • Comfort: Many men are drawn to skirts for practical reasons: breathability, freedom of movement, and relief from hot weather or restrictive trousers.

  • Identity and Expression: In an era where personal authenticity is prized, clothing is increasingly seen as a tool for self-expression, not a rigid social code. Men’s skirts, from utilitarian kilts to playful miniskirts, become a canvas for articulating individuality and confidence.

  • Cultural Conversation: Rather than “dressing for gender,” today’s wearers dress to express who they are and how they feel; sometimes political, sometimes playful, always personal.

Fashion’s Gender-Fluid Future Isn’t a Fad

The embrace of skirts by men has deep sociological roots. In recent years, high fashion brands like Rick Owens, Comme des Garçons, and Givenchy have included skirts for men in their collections, but this trend runs much wider. From traditional garments like the Scottish kilt or the South Asian lungi, to hip hop artists like A$AP Rocky and Harry Styles wearing skirts publicly, the message is clear: It’s about time that fashion truly reflects the diversity of people who wear it.

Image credit: Getty Images

This doesn’t mean all gender norms are vanishing overnight. Some see stares, encounter questions, or experience online criticism, but acceptance is surging. The discussion has moved far beyond whether men “should” wear skirts, to why anyone ever thought they couldn’t.

Expression on Your Own Terms: The World Today

What has changed is not just runway style, but the world. Gen Z and Millennials increasingly reject binary rules in favour of a more inclusive, pluralistic view of gender and selfhood. In this new social landscape:

  • Clothing is less about signalling group conformity and more about asserting personal story, culture, or comfort.

  • The stigma of “dressing differently” is weakening, replaced by the idea that authenticity is admirable.

  • The workplace, schools, and public spaces are gradually adapting, recognising that self-expression through clothes is a part of a healthier, more inclusive society.

The Bottom Line: Embracing the Skirt Means Embracing Progress

There’s nothing inherently radical about wearing a skirt. What’s truly radical is erasing the shame, fear, and social policing that kept people from expressing themselves. When men (and people of all genders) choose what feels comfortable, joyful, and true for them, everyone wins. Fashion’s future may be genderless, but its present is about freedom: freedom to be seen, to be expressive, and to belong.

As with any social change, progress takes time. But as old taboos fade, the skirt’s journey from scandal to symbol of modern selfhood is proof of how far we’ve come.

The future? It’s wide open.

And so is the wardrobe.

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