Fashion Law Journal
KEY HIGHLIGHTS-
- Everything you need to know about Kalbelia community and their art forms.
- How are Kalbelia quilts made?
- What is Kalbelia craft revival project?
- Future of the nomadic art forms
The Kalbelia community is nomadic and found mostly in parts of India, Pakistan and Afghanistan. There are different sub castes of Kalbelia, spread across Rajasthan regions- Pushkar, Ajmer and Bundi are few of them. The Kalbelia tribe is recognized globally for their song and dance traditions for which they got UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage tag in 2010. They are also known for their knowledge of snakes. Their traditional occupation was catching snakes and treating snake bites. But after the wildlife protection act came into existence, their income gradually decreased.
The women of Kalbelia community used to make quilts also known as ‘Gudari’. These quilts were made using recycled pieces of fabric which takes about one to three months to be made. The quilts were very precious as they were preserved as an heirloom and given to their daughters as dowry.
The most common quilts are made by the Sapera community who are snake charmers. The quilts are made by stitching almost 6 to 8 layers of fabric together and the embroidery is done on the surface of the fabric. This technique is also called ‘Doda-taka’, where various patterns are embroidered in which the needle passes angularly. Few techniques of appliqué work are also used.
The motifs on their Gudari are majorly inspired from their culture of snake catching. They replicate the scales on the bodies of snake and their movements. The motifs have been named as bacche ki manger (chain of kids holding hands), nariyal ful (coconut flowers), bajubandh (armlet) and chiriya ke pankh (wings of a bird). Few motifs are- Ankadi Phool, Sagwan Jhar, Oont, Singola, Mudki Magar, Kodi, Kachbo, Kangara, Lat, Sankhadi and faniya. The colorful yarns which can be seen are called ‘khashida’ and are made of acrylic wool. This craft of kalbelia community is so underrated that nobody really knows about it.
Due to the covid-19 pandemic, a number of cultural programs were cancelled leaving the Kalbelia community performers unemployed. The community was badly affected and no medical or ration facilities were provided to them.
The Kalbelia craft revival project was started by Kota Heritage Society (KHS) in 2020 and is supported financially by NIFT Jodhpur and Indian Institute of Crafts and Design, Jaipur. The main aim of this project is to-
- Preserve quilting traditions of the nomadic community.
- Provide raw material and design intervention.
- Provide its women with stable livelihood opportunities.
- Create a sustainable system so they can become self reliant.
- Spread awareness about the beautiful craft.
‘Mewa Sapera’, resident of Pani pench Kalakar colony, Jaipur, Rajasthan is one of the women who participated in this revival project. She is a internationally acclaimed singer, dancer and quilt maker. She is one of the four women who still make these ‘Gudaris’. She learnt the art of making quilts in childhood by her mother. The Kalbelia community has a volume of cultural history, learning methods and textile traditions which can be very helpful for the future generations.
An exhibition name ‘Quilting the memories’ was held at India International Centre, New Delhi from 20th – 26th July 2022 by Kota Heritage Society to promote the quilts made by the Kalbelia women and to financially support them. The craft was loved the locals. Artisanal skills like quilting and embroidery provide alternate income opportunities to retired and unemployed kalbelia performers like Mewa Sapera, securing their financial status in old age.
Sources-
http://www.kotaheritagesociety.in/khs/kalbelia-craft-revival-project.html
Author: Simran Samtani
