All you Need to Know about Sabyasachi x H&M: From Backlash to Apology

A much-anticipated collaboration between Indian couturier Sabyasachi and fast fashion company H&M debuted recently to much hype. The Indian designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Swedish fast-fashion chain H&M’s latest collaboration titled ‘Wanderlust’ had been introduced through selected stores and online market through hm.com worldwide from August 12, 2021.

The collection featured womenswear, menswear, jewelry, scarfs, sunglasses, visor caps, boho bags, belts, and many more exciting accessories, as well as the Sabyasachi’s signature saree, the first instance of any ethnic product being launched by H&M. Furthermore, another key highlight of this collection,  Indian textile and print traditions brought to life by the Sabyasachi Art Foundation, meticulously crafted embroidery and multicultural silhouettes.

The Kolkata-based courtier, considered among India’s top designers has created his legacy in India when it comes to luxurious traditional clothing ranging from bridal lehengas and sarees. For the global audience, he created a similar line under the recent H&M collaboration. Although the outfits from the new drop were sold out just after it went online but the collaboration led to an outburst of disappointed fans on the internet.

The label ‘Sabyasachi’ has always preached authentic Indian textiles and empowerment through karigars (artisans). The latest collaboration of the designer with fast-fashion giant H&M received a lot of backlash on social media because the label Sabyasachi is synonymous with slow fashion and workers ethics. The collaboration with a fast-fashion brand that is time and again accused of exploiting its workers and harming the environment contradicted the basic vision of the Indian couturier Sabyasachi.

H&M has been accused by activists and environmentalists of breaking labour laws, abusing its textile workers, and harming the environment. According to research published by the Clean Clothes Campaign in July 2021, H&M was one of the brands that used the global pandemic as an excuse to cut workers’ wages, pushing them further into poverty.[1] Moreover, in 2018, Global Labour Justice conducted an investigation and found that many textile workers employed by H&M faced gender-based violence and sexual abuse at their factories.[2] Although H&M promised to pay fair compensation to its workers who work long hours to achieve deadlines, civic groups discovered that company did not follow through.[3]

Time and again this fast-fashion retail chain has been scrutinised for its unethical practices, therefore, it led to huge disappointment when the label ‘Sabyasachi’ collaborated with a brand like H&M, which is known to have mismanagement in its supply chain. Further, many expressed the displeasure to see that the karigars of Sabyasachi (artisans) who are valued greatly in the creation of Indian Traditional Textile would sit by and watch their designs being cheaply mass produced. Sabyasachi is a firm believer in slow fashion, having founded his business on handlooms that can be passed down through generations. However, this collection seemed to be hypocritical because its neither sustainable nor empowering Indian artisans in any way. Sabyasachi grew as a cult brand based on the values of sustainability and ethical fashion but the new collaboration seemed like an attempt at greenwashing.

Defense from Sabyasachi:

 

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After having witnessed the disappointment of the new collaboration, Sabyasachi Mukherjee released a statement apologising and stating that the label did not anticipate this response. Even after having the best team of forecasting, logistics and supply chain they did not comprehend this response. It was clarified that the entire motive for the collaboration was to create something for everyone. This is also meant to give unlimited access to the sacred Bengal Tiger Logo which we hold very close. Mukherjee concluded the statement with a promise to address the disappointments in future business models, meet everyone’s needs soon and spread the brand internationally.

Comments from shoppers:

‘While it is commendable that Sabyasachi has paved a new path for Indian fashion by globalizing ‘Designed In India’, decades after India was only known as a hub for manufacturing labour; it is difficult to ignore that it chose H&M for this collaboration. H&M has been infamous for being the flag bearer of fast fashion, and for putting India on the world map for fashion design, India’s star Sabyasachi should have taken the ethical route. Commenting on the standard of design is not even relevant, however good or bad it may be, but collaborating with a fast-fashion giant like H&M is putting out a distasteful message. At this point when fashion circles are bubbling with talks of sustainable and ethical fashion, Sabyasachi could have perused this opportunity and become a beacon of light for a sustainable fashion revolution in India. Although it would be unfair to put the burden of setting an example on a single entity, but keeping in mind Sabyasachi’s grandeur and scale, he could have used his status to propagate mindful fashion. It can only be hoped that this streak of Indian designers’ work being available across the globe is continued, albeit sustainably.’ – Virali Joisher

‘So with a name like Sabyasachi, we do expect something outstanding. However, it is a little more complicated in this case. The collaboration makes sense from a strictly business standpoint. The pandemic has harmed most sectors, including fashion. Having a fashion label is about demonstrating creativity and sustainability but not to forget it is also about making money. Furthermore, bringing out this collection provides work for karigars and tailors. Also, this is an attempt to make luxury more democratic in some way.

If we apply the definition of sustainable, the whole fashion industry should be abolished, because even production of a single garment is harmful to the environment.’ – Trishla Jain

References:

[1] H&M, Nike and Primark use pandemic to squeeze factory workers in production countries even more, Clean Clothes Campaign, available at: https://cleanclothes.org/news/2021/hm-nike-and-primark-use-pandemic-to-squeeze-factory-workers-in-production-countries-even-more (last visited 15 August 2021).

[2] H&M probes abuse at Indian factory after death of woman worker, Aljazeera, available at: https://www.aljazeera.com/economy/2021/2/2/hm-probes-abuse-at-indian-factory-after-death-of-woman-worker (last visited 15 August 2021).

[3] Kieran Giltbert, H&M accused of failing to ensure fair wages for global factory workers, Reuters, available at: https://www.reuters.com/article/us-workers-garment-abuse-idUSKCN1M41GR (last visited 15 August 2021).