Brand Case Study: Cartier

Bedazzling Diamonds, Looming Lawsuits and Everlasting Elegance- Cartier epitomises it all.  The renowned jewellery house has several patents and design trademarks later, established itself as a titan of the industry. 

Origination

The story begins in Paris in 1847, when a 27-year-old Louis-François Cartier took charge of the workshop where he had trained and put his own name above the door. He could hardly have known that this was the first chapter of a jewellery dynasty. The house started out modestly, until Princess Mathilde began buying its pieces in 1856 and carried its name into Parisian high society. Yet Louis-François was not the only driving force behind Cartier’s rise. His grandsons, the three brothers Louis, Pierre and Jacques, built the business into the empire known today. Each brought his own strengths in gemstones, design, innovation and commercial sense, and together they turned the house motto, “Never copy- Only create”, into a reality.

Louis-François, 12 years after the beginning of Cartier, expanded and purchased an acclaimed jewellery house- Gillian. The signature red boxes were forthwith stamped with the freshly incorporated venture of Cartier Gillian. Succession, a cardinal rule of nature, was observed in the house of Cartier as well, with the company being headed by Louis Joseph, the eldest grandson, who carried the legacy under the name of Cartier, restoring the brand for what it was. 

Following the establishment of the boutique in Ru De La Paix in Paris in the year, Cartier instituted various designs- the Garland style inspired by the neoclassical era, geometric and one-of-a-kind abstract pieces and signature wristwatches. Expansions to New York’s Fifth Avenue and Expeditions to India sparked the innovative fire within Cartier, having since patented and established a multitude of Unique propositions over the years.  An essential figurehead of the organisation is Jeanne Toussaint. Popularly known as “The Panther”, she has served as the creative director for the Maison, taking the notion of art deco and artistry to new heights. 

In 1993, the Cartier family noticed dwindling succession, and the company was subsequently purchased by Richemont Group, a Swiss luxury goods holding company. Since then, The Richemont Group has recorded record sales figures, with global expansion and greater innovations. 

Lately, talks of LVMH, one of the strongest luxury conglomerates globally, have surfaced in a bid to acquire the Richemont Group, beginning with the purchase of a small stake in the company. 

Patents & Product Lines

Trademarks held by Cartier fall under three primary classes of trademarks.

1. Class 14: Precious metals, jewellery and timing devices. This class includes Engagement rings, Diamonds, Jewellery boxes and Movement for clocks and watches. 
2. Class 16: Paper products, stationery and office supplies. This entails Art Prints, Graphic prints, Arts, Crafts and Modelling equipment. 
3. Class 18: Leather products, bags, wallets and luggage. This class covers Backpacks, Bags, Purse, Handbags and more. 

Marketing Strategies

In a saturated market, Cartier thrives by leveraging certain key strategies to develop consumer connections and conversion to purchases. 

One of the primary factors drawing consumers towards the company is The History and Heritage associated with it. Receiving the Royal Certificate from the Court of King Edward VII, catering to Bhupindra Singh, the Maharaj of Patiala,Cartier is built on the foundation of imperial and exquisite elegance. 

Cartier’s innovation and ability to launch signature product lines is yet another marketing benefit. The Love Bracelet with the unique screwdriver, The Tank Watch, The Mystery Clock Model, La Panthère motif as a wristwatch are some of the original creations of the company. The novelty and ingenuity of the designs make it a status symbol and a desirable acquisition. 

Yet another modus operandi is creative and sentimental campaigns. The Proposal, a campaign featuring the variety offered by Cartier in their engagement rings, and the Shape Your Time campaign showcasing the convoluted craftsmanship of the wristwatches- each campaign seeks to communicate a story. A story so nostalgic and moving as to influence the audience. 

Moreover, Cartier is celebrated for partnering with the Louvre Museum in Paris, inculcating and enhancing the commitment towards art. This collaboration proves fruitful through contributions towards the reconciliation of Musée des Arts Décoratifs.  The Polo Cup, The Cannes Film Festival and corresponding associations place Cartier above the others. 

Legal Disputes

A company so original in its mode of operation is bound to be engaged in legal disputes. 

• Cartier v. Kristal and others (Marseille, 2023) 

Cartier brought proceedings against several companies it said were selling copies of its “Love” and “Juste Un Clou” jewellery, relying on trademark, copyright and parasitic competition claims. Rather than simply denying the copying, the defendants went after the validity of Cartier’s rights in the two designs, arguing that they lacked distinctiveness. The first instance court in Marseille ruled for Cartier and upheld its rights, confirming that both designs are protected under French intellectual property law. 

• Cartier v. Tiffany & Co. 

Beyond the rem of copyright infringement and trademark violations, in the present case, Cartier alleged Tiffany and Co. of tortious interference in the contractual relations between an employee of Cartier and the company, in a bid to acquire confidential information about the business operations of North America, particularly the High Jewelry Division. A former employee of Cartier was allegedly contacted by the Vice President for a prospectus job offer, which later entered the realm of unlawful acquisition of information in violation of the confidentiality clauses and non-disclosure agreements.  Tiffany claimed that the information procured was not sufficiently enough to constitute trade secrets. However, the case was later withdrawn by Cartier through a “stipulation of discontinuance of lawsuit with prejudice” after the court granted an injunction, forbidding Tiffany from utilising the information so acquired. 

Conclusion

A riveting history and eternal simplicity have rightfully put Cartier on a pedestal. With rich eloquence and grace, Cartier has built an industry of its own. The intricate details, refined craftsmanship and well-thought-out strategies make Cartier what it is today- Not just a name, but a statement one wears. 

References

7. Story and Heritage- https://int.cartier.com/en/the-maison/the-story/story-and-heritage.html#1898
8. Louis-Francois Cartier’s 200th Birthday- https://www.the-cartiers.com/blogpost/louis-francois-cartier
9. Cartier’s Marketing Strategy Explained https://www.marketingexplainers.com/cartiers-marketing-strategy-explained/#ib-toc-anchor-0
10. NOT ONLY DIAMONDS BUT SOME RIVALRIES ARE FOREVER – CARTIER VS. TIFFANY https://www.theippress.com/2023/03/28/not-only-diamonds-but-some-rivalries-are-forever-cartier-vs-tiffany/
11. Understanding trademark classes – Class 18 https://www.tramatm.com/class-assist/trademark-class/18
12. The History Of Cartier https://www.richdiamonds.com/inspiration/the-history-of-cartier?srsltid=AfmBOorIKFlwmq2GDBpMwQk8EB5hD8Zu2dFIxV2tP6_7KW7LTtVSn_8-
13. The Wisdom behind Cartier’s Marketing, how it sells treasure https://www.brandvm.com/post/cartiers-marketing-sells-status

Author(s):

Meet Kanishka Chawla, an academically driven student at NMIMS School of Law, Mumbai. Kanishka strives for excellence in every field she is working in and overcomes challenges by providing pragmatic solutions. Enthusiastic about fashion, Kanishka brings a legal perspective to a creatively fuelled industry.