French fashion label Coperni is ceasing operations after its founders failed to reach an agreement with Tomorrow, the company that served as its majority shareholder and exclusive distributor. The announcement, made on November 4, marks a major setback for a label that built an international following through experimental runway presentations and technology-led designs.
Co-founders and creative directors Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer confirmed the decision in a statement shared with the press, explaining that months of attempts to resolve the disagreement had not produced a workable outcome. The closure follows a prolonged dispute over payments and the financial arrangements between the label and Tomorrow.
How the Partnership Unravelled
Tomorrow became a key partner in Coperni’s development, taking a stake in the label in 2019 and handling its distribution and licensing. Under this arrangement, the company collected wholesale revenues and paid the brand its agreed share, while also reimbursing certain production and operational expenses.
According to Vogue Business’s reporting, Coperni alleged that Tomorrow had stopped paying amounts owed to the label, including revenue shares and expense reimbursements. The resulting cash-flow difficulties affected the brand’s ability to finance its operations and support its teams.
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The situation became more complicated in March 2026, when Tomorrow was acquired by Progetto 11, the holding company of Italian e-commerce business The Level Group. Following the acquisition, Vaillant and Meyer attempted to regain control of Coperni by negotiating a buyback. However, the discussions did not result in an agreement.
In response to the dispute, Progetto 11 had previously stated that it inherited a business already facing ownership and governance disagreements, as well as funding difficulties.
Court Protection Could Not Prevent the Closure
The financial strain had become evident earlier in the year. In February, Coperni announced that it would not participate in the upcoming Paris Fashion Week, citing the deterioration of its relationship with Tomorrow and the resulting difficulties in supporting the label’s development. The decision was reported by The Business of Fashion.
On June 11, Coperni SAS obtained judicial reorganisation protection from a Paris court. The proceedings were intended to give the French operating company an opportunity to continue its activities while addressing its financial difficulties and protecting employees.
However, court protection did not resolve the underlying dispute or guarantee the company’s long-term survival. After months of unsuccessful negotiations and efforts to find a way forward, the founders ultimately announced that Coperni SAS would cease operations. FashionUnited’s coverage also reported the development as the conclusion of the label’s efforts to preserve its business.
The Label That Made Technology Part of Fashion
The closure is particularly significant given Coperni’s influence on contemporary fashion presentation. Founded by Vaillant and Meyer in 2013, the Parisian label became known for combining wearable designs with unconventional materials, digital culture and theatrical runway concepts.
Its most widely recognised moment came during Paris Fashion Week in September 2022, when model Bella Hadid appeared on the runway in a dress created live using spray-on fabric technology. The presentation brought considerable international attention to the label and became one of the defining fashion images of that season.
Coperni continued to experiment beyond the runway. Its Swipe Bag became a recognisable accessory, while its Air Swipe Bag, developed using silica aerogel, demonstrated the designers’ interest in material innovation. The brand also staged a show at Disneyland Paris in 2024, reinforcing its reputation for turning fashion presentations into larger creative experiences. Fashionista’s report on the closure revisits several of these moments.
What Happens to Coperni Now?
The immediate announcement concerns Coperni SAS, the French operating company responsible for the label’s day-to-day activities. The wider ownership and licensing structure is more complicated, with Coperni UK Limited holding the licensing agreement with Tomorrow. This distinction means that the cessation of the French company’s operations should not automatically be treated as confirmation that every aspect of the Coperni name or its intellectual property has ceased to exist.
For now, the future of the label remains uncertain. The dispute also raises broader questions about the risks faced by independent fashion houses that rely on external groups for distribution, financing and commercial expansion. A successful creative identity does not necessarily translate into financial independence, particularly when a brand’s access to revenue and operational resources depends on a single business partner.
For Vaillant and Meyer, the announcement closes an eight-year chapter of building Coperni into an internationally recognised fashion label. Their statement, however, suggests that their creative ambitions are far from over. Whether those ideas eventually return under the Coperni name or take a different direction remains to be seen.
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