In the dynamic realm of fashion, Loewe emerges as a trailblazer once again with its Men’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, (Paris, France) a compelling fusion of art, pop culture, and avant-garde fashion. Jonathan Anderson, the visionary creative director, orchestrates a symphony of style by drawing inspiration from the vibrant and provocative works of American artist Richard Hawkins, crafting a collection that not only captivates the eye but also delves into the nuances of contemporary culture.
Fusion of Art and Fashion: A Collage of Realness
Jonathan Anderson’s collaboration with Richard Hawkins, a professor of painting and drawing at the University of California, is a brilliant fusion of art and fashion. Hawkins’ multi-layered paintings, influenced by pop culture, Greek and Roman statuary, and contemporary celebrity culture, served as the foundation for the audacious Loewe collection. The show itself unfolded as an exploration of Hawkins’ fixations, with digital screens resembling stained-glass windows showcasing Loewe’s celebrity ambassadors like Jamie Dornan.
Anderson’s approach of “collaged realness” is evident throughout the collection, deconstructing traditional silhouettes and challenging the conventional boundaries of masculinity. The garments, including scaled leather coats and beaded trousers, are imbued with a sense of kitschiness, offering a playful celebration of kink while maintaining sophistication.
Constructing a Narrative: Garments That Tell a Story
The collection is a testament to Anderson’s prowess in garment construction. Scaled leather coats, spray-painted moments before the show, beaded trousers, and bags adorned with Hawkins’ artwork demonstrate a commitment to pushing the boundaries of traditional fashion. The ‘one-piece’ look signifies Anderson’s understanding of the fluidity in modern masculinity, where definitions are no longer rigid. In a nod to the concept of ‘collaged realness,’ models strutted down the runway in leather cargo pants, baseball sneakers, and checkered shirts, offering a playful take on the irreverence of youth. The visual trick of trousers attached to socks and shoes reflects Anderson’s commentary on modern life as a continuous collage of algorithmic images shaping our perception. Figure 2.
Accessories: Elevating the Ensemble
The collection extends beyond clothing to include a diverse range of accessories. The fusion of high-end fashion with elements of streetwear, such as skater sneakers, boots and, tote bags adorned with glass bead artworks add a luxurious touch to the ensemble, showcasing Loewe’s evolution towards fashion’s forefront. Figure 3.
Venue and Installation: A Cathedral to Masculinity
The show’s venue serves as a conceptual backdrop—a strange cathedral to masculinity. ‘Stained-glass window’ screens, displayed self-portraits of Loewe’s male ambassadors and friends, creating an immersive experience. The juxtaposition of Hawkins’ collages capturing Roman statuary, French decadence, and contemporary celebrity culture sets the stage for a visual spectacle. The series of Hawkins paintings at the runway’s end, labelled the ‘altar’ by Anderson, reinforces the seamless integration of art and fashion. Figure 4.
A Star-Studded Affair: Celebrities Front and Centre
The front row of the show was a star-studded affair, with a multitude of handsome actors, including Jamie Dornan, Andrew Garfield, Nicholas Hoult, Zayn Malik, and Kit Connor. Celebrity ambassadors like Josh O’Connor, Taeyong, Manu Rios and Omar Apollo contributed to video collages, adding a personal touch to the narrative of the show. Anderson’s decision to incorporate selfies from actors like Jamie Dornan emphasized the integration of social media and celebrity culture into the collection’s narrative. Figure 5.
Voices of the Visionaries: Jonathan Anderson and Richard Hawkins Speak
Anderson’s creative vision for the FW24 collection reflects a keen observation of modern life as a “collage of media.” The show’s narrative, influenced by social media feeds, paparazzi shots, and celebrity culture, mirrors the levelling-off of contemporary culture. Anderson’s exploration of the “algorithm of masculinity” speaks to the ubiquity of visual information and its impact on our perceptions.
In Anderson’s words, “It’s 360 degrees—you can’t get away from media.” The trickery employed in the collection, such as trousers attached to socks and jackets fused with trousers, underscores his desire to reinterpret norms and have fun with fashion.
Hawkins, the artistic force behind the collection, reflects on over three decades of fascination with the male body and mythologies. “The altar at the end of the runway symbolizes the culmination of my fixations,” says Hawkins, emphasizing the connection between his artworks and the visual narrative presented by Loewe.
Conclusion: Loewe FW24 – A Bold Statement in Contemporary Fashion
The Loewe Fall/Winter 2024 men’s collection emerges as a bold statement in contemporary fashion, pushing the boundaries of conventional menswear. The collaboration brings forth a collection that celebrates individuality, challenges norms, and seamlessly blends art and fashion. From the intricate detailing of garments to the immersive venue design, every element of the show contributes to the narrative of a dynamic and evolving masculinity. As the fashion world continues to embrace diversity and creativity, Loewe stands at the forefront, showcasing the artistry that can be achieved through the fusion of pop culture and high fashion.
Reference
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Images/Photographs
- Sim, J. (2024). Watch the Loewe men’s fall/winter 2024 show here. [online] Vogue Singapore. Available at: https://vogue.sg/loewe-mens-fall-winter-2024-show/.
- Christian, (2024). Loewe Fall/Winter 2024 – Paris Fashion Week Men’s – fashionotography. [online] Available at: https://www.fashionotography.com/loewe-fall-2024-paris-fashion-week-mens/ [Accessed 24 Jan. 2024].
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- kuwmanurios (2024). Manu Ríos becomes part of the Loewe FW24 backdrop at fashion week 💘. Available at: https://twitter.com/kuwmanurios/status/1748699892304794041 [Accessed 22 Jan. 2024].
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- Rooprai, R. (2024). Loewe. [online] The Impression. Available at: https://theimpression.com/loewe-fall-2024-mens-fashion-show-backstage/ [Accessed 22 Jan. 2024].