Fashion Psychology in Bollywood: A Deep Dive into Raazi

Raazi, directed by Meghna Gulzar and starring Alia Bhatt, is a gripping espionage thriller that not only captivated audiences with its intense storyline but also with its nuanced use of fashion to reflect character development and emotional arcs. Set against the backdrop of the 1971 Indo-Pakistan war, the film tells the story of Sehmat Khan, a young Indian woman who marries a Pakistani military officer to serve as an undercover spy for India. This article explores the intricate role of fashion psychology in Raazi, highlighting how the film uses clothing to enhance storytelling and deepen audience engagement.

Fashion as a Reflection of Character Transformation

Raazi showcases a significant transformation in Sehmat’s character, and this evolution is subtly mirrored through her wardrobe choices.

1. Innocence and Simplicity: At the beginning of the film, Sehmat is depicted as a naive, innocent college student. Her wardrobe consists of simple, traditional Indian attire—modest kurtas and dupattas in soft, pastel colors. These choices reflect her sheltered upbringing and unassuming nature.
2. Transition to a Spy: As Sehmat is thrust into the world of espionage, her clothing begins to evolve. The shift is gradual but noticeable—her attire becomes more structured, hair style is cleaner, signifying her growing sense of duty and the weight of the mission she carries. The subtle incorporation of darker hues reflects the gravity of her new role and the inner turmoil she experiences.
3. Assimilation and Adaptation: Once in Pakistan, Sehmat’s wardrobe adapts to her new environment. She dons traditional Pakistani outfits—salwar kameez and sarees that blend with her surroundings, enabling her to assimilate seamlessly. This adaptation is crucial for her undercover role, as it helps her blend in and gain the trust of those around her.

She usually wears soft pastel colored sarees and salwar kameez to show her new bride persona. Her tricks to hide the spy personality, notice how she has worn flowy fabrics monochromatic thread embroidery, and floral outfits making her look soft, harmless and subtle, hence, used as disguise to hide her true intentions.

Jewellery Designs: Considering the movie is based in 1971, they have used vintage jewellery designs like chaand baliya, sleek haar (long necklace), anklets, dainty jhumkas, minimal baalis, and more.

Make up: Alia Bhatt’s make up, done by celebrity make-up artist Aditya Kumar Sharma, in this movie is also very subtle with just muted lip gloss, light pink blush, some kajal and a simple braid or a bun.

Kashmiri Heritage: Coming from Kashmir, you will see a lot of resemblance in Kashmiri attires, Kashmiri embroideries like kashida, sozni and typical Kashmiri thread work.

In the film, the female spy character is portrayed with a distinctly feminine visual style. She consistently wears flowy salwar-kurtas in pastel colors, maintaining a soft and demure appearance throughout. This choice contrasts sharply with the typical portrayal of action figures, who are often dressed in dark or black clothing to signify strength and stealth. By avoiding black entirely, the film presents a fresh and nuanced interpretation of the espionage and thriller genres. This deviation from traditional imagery challenges conventional expectations and invites the audience to recalibrate their understanding of what a spy can look like.

In a crucial scene, when her husband (Vicky Kaushal) is about to catch her red-handed, she quickly removes her kurta to distract him and send him away. This moment underscores that, despite her extensive training, it is her quick thinking that ultimately saves her from being discovered behind enemy lines. The director and actor skillfully used this simple piece of clothing to create a powerful and tense moment, showcasing how a piece of cloth can be used in such a way.

The character’s wardrobe underscores her inner strength and resilience while retaining her gentleness and femininity, creating a compelling and multifaceted portrayal that stands out in the genre. In Raazi, fashion psychology plays a crucial role in enriching the storytelling and character development. Through carefully chosen attire, the film effectively conveys Sehmat’s emotional journey, inner conflicts, and transformation from an innocent girl to a determined spy. The nuanced use of fashion not only enhances the narrative but also deepens the audience’s connection with the protagonist, making Raazi a compelling example of how clothing can transcend mere aesthetics to become a powerful narrative device in Bollywood cinema.