Fashion Law Journal
“I’m on my marquise diamonds; I’m a marquise diamond and Could even make Tiffany jealous.…” as Selena Gomez sang those lines in her infamous song Good For You, little did we think it would make a comeback when she got engaged in early December.
In case you have been living under a rock, let me bring you up to speed on what has recently occurred in our world of pop culture. Selena Gomez, the former Disney Channel star and Singer, got engaged to her longtime boyfriend, the famous Songwriter and producer Benny Blanco, known for his compositions in hits like ‘Lonely – Justin Bieber’ (We know, Ironic, Right?) Before we digress, let’s come back to the ‘Rock’ in the room, the diamond around Selena’s finger.
What is a Marquise diamond? Did you ever wonder till its comeback?
Let us tell you about it.
Behind its chic cut and elegant sharpness, there is a story, a love story which wraps around many lovers past its time along with its royal history. Straight from the French Courts of Royalty, it is believed that King Louis XV came across Jean Antionnete Poissone at a masked ball in Versailles. Captivated by her beauty and sheer elegance he had never seen before, he made her his chief mistress with a high-ranked place in the court as the Marquise de Pompadour (also known as Madame de Pompadour). Out of all that Jean Antionnete Poissone possessed, King Louis XV was most awestruck with the shape of her lips, calling them the most perfect lips he had ever laid his eyes on.
He summoned the royal jeweller, the best he knew, to design a Diamond in the exact shape of her lips and thus was made, The Marquise Diamond!
Although the diamond had its ups and downs in terms of preference among buyers, it always fluctuated over time, such as from the late 60s to the early 70s, especially being popular among the brides, the younger shoppers looked away from these cuts, terming it “my mother’s diamond”, making the Marquise cut the last choice. But, the full circle moments in fashion have given a comeback to fashion trends we thought we’d never see; like the bell bottoms, the Marquise Diamond is given another chance.
While yes, since the 60s, technology has changed in terms of craftsmanship, making the cuts more defined and allowing more light performance in the diamond and having cut up to 58 like a regular diamond while the trick is to maintain the shape, size, and ultimately mastery of the diamond is the key to making it as desirable if not more than a regular diamond.
When considering a marquise diamond, it’s important to examine the finer details of the cut and structure. One feature to look for is the “French Tip,” a specialized cut variation where several smaller facets replace the large bezel facet at each tip. This technique enhances the diamond’s appearance by making the pointed ends resemble a star, increasing their sparkle and brilliance. Identifying a French Tip can be challenging without a trained eye, so consulting a professional jeweler or gemologist can be helpful to determine if your diamond has this unique characteristic.
The process of selecting a marquise diamond is also influenced by the shape of the rough crystal from which it is cut. Certain rough diamond crystals, particularly flatter ones, are often chosen for marquise cuts because of their suitability for this elongated shape. When evaluating a loose marquise diamond, it’s crucial to examine it from multiple angles—both from the top and the side profile. This allows you to assess its depth, which is a key factor in determining the diamond’s overall quality and durability.
Some marquise diamonds are described as “shallow” or “spready,” terms that refer to stones with less depth relative to their length and width. While these stones may not meet the ideal proportions for a marquise cut, they can offer certain advantages. A spready diamond often looks larger than a proportionally deeper stone, which can be appealing if you’re seeking a diamond with maximum visual impact. Additionally, spready diamonds tend to be priced lower than their ideally proportioned counterparts, making them a budget-friendly option for those who prioritize size over perfection.
However, it’s worth noting that marquise diamonds with shallow depths may have drawbacks. The pointed ends, a hallmark of the marquise shape, are more vulnerable to chipping or damage, particularly if the depth falls below the recommended range. A well-proportioned stone balances aesthetic appeal with structural integrity, so understanding the trade-offs is key. If you’re considering a spready diamond, ensure you’re informed about its characteristics and have it set in a protective setting to minimize the risk of damage. With careful evaluation and awareness, you can choose a marquise diamond that suits your preferences and budget while ensuring lasting beauty and value.
Author Name: Prathyusha Harish (Columnist)
Prathyusha Harish is a legal consultant specialising in fashion law and mediation, blending her expertise in dispute resolution with a deep passion for the fashion industry.
She explores the intersection of law, business, and design and is also the founder of a fashion brand.
