Fashion Law Journal
It’s been Seventy-five years since the bikini debuted in the fashion world. Today, it is one of the favourite items of women who wish to have a Beach vacation. The same cloth, now embraced with a lot of love and popularity, previously had an entirely different story to tell. The history of Bikinis from the 18th century to till date is filled with resistance to patriarchal norms, body positivity, politics and scandals. Its journey reflects not only the changes in women’s fashion but also the societal attitudes towards women and their bodily autonomy.
ORIGIN OF SWIMWEAR
The concept of swimwear is not new. The origin of swimwear dates back to Ancient Rome, when swimming was not common and was done privately. During this era, Women were spotted wearing a bandeau-style top with a pair of briefs to cover up. Greco-Roman Art further illustrates women wearing bikini-like outfits for swimming. It is suggested that bikini-like outfits were used by gymnasts rather than for swimming. The Villa Romana del Casale in Sicily features mosaics of women playing games in bandeau tops and belly button-bearing bottoms, suggesting the versatile nature of the garment during the ancient period.
The development of swimwear underwent a significant transformation during the 18th century in Europe, coinciding with the rise of sea bathing as a popular activity. During this period, women were allowed to take baths on public beaches, which were considered to be immoral years back. At this time, women started wearing long dresses called” bathing costumes”, which were made of wool. These ankle-length loose-fitted clothes were intentionally designed to maintain the modesty of the woman and hence were non-transparent. Small weights were tied to the dress so that it did not float in the water, thus protecting the modesty of women.
During the Victorian period, women used little houses called “bathing machines”, which could be manoeuvred into and out of the water. These machines served as private places to change their dress before coming out of the water. The swimsuit of this period was characterised by long sleeves and knee-length single-piece skirts, reflecting the prevailing concept of women’s modesty. During the end of the era, “Princess suits” were popularised. These were single-piece garments made of dark colours. The swimsuit prevented the arms movements, thus making it one of the most impractical dresses. The impracticality of Princess wear became a catalyst for the present-day swimsuits. For the ease of swimming, the length, as well as the material of the princess suit, was changed.
In the subsequent years, the two-piece clothing was transformed into a single-piece costume, but the strict requirement of loose-fitting clothes was not removed. Around the same time, swimming gained recognition as a sport, making it way into various competitions, including the inaugural Olympic Games in 1896. But women weren’t permitted to compete in the same until 1912. Even then, women were subjected to specific dress codes in swimming events.
An important figure in challenging these social norms and influencing swimwear choices was the Australian performer and swimmer Annette Kellerman. Her significant impact can be traced back to 1907 when she was arrested for wearing a tight-fitting one-piece swimsuit. This sparked an outrage in society, which led to the acceptance of tight-fitted single-piece silhouettes swim wear. Moreover, this also led the designers to change the perception, further creating swimwear with synthetic materials like Rayon.
During the time of world war, the swimsuits created a class division among the Europeans. The affluent classes opted for silk swimming suits, whereas the others wore knitted swimsuits, thereby creating a stark contrast. Knitted swimwear was also popular in America and was accessible to middle-class families. Despite their popularity, this swimwear was not practical because of the material used for making them.
The 1930s and 1940s witnessed the rise of the popularity of Swimwear along with Hollywood. Famous fashion designers, including the iconic Coco Chanel, started making unisex single-piece swimwear. The change in societal perception toward tanned skin, coupled with A-list actors from the Hollywood industry wearing clothing similar to bikinis with the bottom covering the navel, led to the rise of the popularity of swimwear. The entertainment industry during this time was governed by the Hays Production Code, which imposed decency standards that prohibited the display of navels on screen. Actors adhered to the same and showcased minimal skin, and the exposure of the navel and belly button was deemed as sinful and immoral. A similar sentiment was also echoed in various magazines which adhered to similar prohibitions.
The advent of industrialisation completely changed the materials and style of swimwear. The traditional wool was replaced with latex yarn, Rayon and other synthetic materials. Swimwear was produced in bulk with a wide range of colours and patterns, revolutionising the aesthetics associated with it. Loose-fitted swimsuits were changed into silhouette swimsuits, which accentuated the female shape. This increased the popularity of the Hourglass shape among the masses, with influential figures like Christian Dior playing a major role.
THE ORIGIN OF BIKINI
World War II created a situation of Fabric rationing, which led to the skimpiness of cloth length. French designers, Jacques Heim and Louis Réard, responding to constraints, tried to create two-piece garments which are smaller in size compared to other swimming suits. The first such garment was made by Jacques Heim in 1932. He named it “Atome”, which featured a bottom that covered the navel and a top resembling a bra. The same didn’t get popularised like the bikini. Three weeks after this, Bikini made its debut.
The modern-day Bikini was designed by French designer Louis Réard on July 5, 1946. He unveiled the fabric at Piscine Molitor, a popular swimming pool in Paris. It was difficult for him to find a model to unveil the dress as most actresses and models were reluctant to wear a two-piece fabric which showcased the woman’s belly button, which was not accepted by society at that time. Hence, he approached Micheline Bernardini, a 19-year-old showgirl from the Casino de Paris, who accepted the offer to be the model. The design comprises four triangles with a newspaper print design attached to strings. He claimed that it was the tiniest bikini ever made, and he even bought a Matchbox to show off that the new swimsuit could fit entirely into it. Réard kept repeating his advertising slogan; “Bikini–smaller than the smallest bathing suit in the world.” The bikini was launched four days after the Bikini Atoll nuclear tests began in the Pacific Ocean, and hence, he took inspiration and named the clothing piece “bikini”.
The unveiling of the Bikini created an uproar in society. This was not the first time a woman had worn a two-piece of swimwear, but what made it distinguished from the rest of the traditional swimsuits was that it showed the woman’s navel to the world, which was considered a scandalous act. Various interpretations of the designs were brought out. Print media described it as “Four triangles of nothing”. For some, the design was attributed to the survivors of the nuclear blast, whereas for others, it was associated with a primitive way of dressing. But one thing was sure: it was loved by most people, especially women. They started to attribute it to the women’s freedom of their bodies and considered it as a slap on the patriarchal norms.
EVOLUTION OF BIKINI
Despite its debut, Bikini faced a slow acceptance on beaches. Most of the countries, including Spain. Italy, Portugal, Belgium and Australia banned the use of bikinis, and the Catholic Church declared it as sinful and immoral. The Winner of the Miss World Beauty Contest in 1951, crowned in a bikini, faced a huge backlash from society for wearing a dress which revealed the belly button.
Nevertheless, the Hollywood and other film industries, along with magazines, started popularising the bikini, which created a huge impact on society. As the perception of society has started changing, bikinis started to appear in the movies. The first such movie is a French Film titled “Manina, the Girl in the Bikini” starring “Brigitte Bardot”, a 17-year actress. She was spotted wearing a Bikini in her debut at the 6th International Cannes Film Festival in 1953. This created a good impact on society, and she was again seen wearing a bikini in the movie “And God Created Woman.” In 1956. The influence of the actress slowly made society accept Bikinis, and she made them popular in Europe. Soon, Betty Grable, Marilyn Monroe and Sophia Loren started becoming fans of bikinis.
Over time, Bikinis diversified into various forms like thongs, Brazilian Bikinis, and micro-bikinis, which showcase artistic as well as self-expression. Even after the bikini became popular, the controversy related to it didn’t flare out. Many beaches in America banned the use of thongs, and they still have a ban on exposing the buttocks. Additionally, countries like Spain have laws that prevent public walking in bikinis.
By the end of the 90s, the Bikini industry generated over $800 million yearly. It acted as liberation for women and was a celebration of freedom. However, the debate surrounding bikinis continued, prompting discussions about the male gaze and Western beauty standards concerning bikini bodies in different cultures around the globe. Even today, many countries prohibit the use of bikinis.
Today, the bikini is associated with body autonomy and thrashing the patriarchial norms in society. It is no longer anti-social, immoral or scandalous. Bikini has come a long way. It has evolved from a controversial garment into a fashion statement which celebrates freedom. Moreover, the “body shape” associated with a bikini has completely changed. Now, Women of every shape, size and colour flaunt in bikinis by liberating the world once again. Bikini, once a main reason for societal debate, is now a testament to inclusivity and self-expression and fosters an acceptable world.
Author: Meghana S S
