Fashion Law Journal
“There’s a perception that fashion comes from the creative minds of the happy few at the top of the fashion food chain and eventually trickles down to the masses. But then there is music to remind us that actually, fashion often trickles upwards” (Arch-Music, 2016).
Collaboration win:
Ahead of the Lollapalooza India 2025 music festival in Mumbai this March, H&M and Lollapalooza announced a collaboration – shoppers could win 2-day passes to the festival. This is not H&M’s first partnership with music festivals; the brand has previously teamed up with the famed Coachella festival multiple times and notably created the popular “H&M Loves Coachella” collection. Such brand collaborations have become a popular strategy for merging two distinct worlds and their consumer bases, creating a mutually beneficial scenario. By joining forces, brands can leverage each other’s strengths, reach new audiences, and offer unique products or experiences that appeal to both sets of consumers. This synergy not only boosts brand visibility but also enhances customer engagement, as the collaboration brings fresh ideas, exclusive offerings, and shared values to the forefront.
Heritage and culturally inspired reboot:
Brand collaborations are not the only way the worlds of fashion and music collide. With increased spotlight on heritage and cultural influences, fashion and music both are great ambassadors. For example, Christian Dior’s iconic fashion show at the Gateway of India in Mumbai in 2023 brought a remarkable focus to India’s needlework and craftsmanship, highlighting the work of women from the Chanakya School of Craft, a partner of LVMH-owned Christian Dior. The event also underscored the powerful role of music in honouring culture and heritage. The soulful performance by an 18-piece Indian orchestra, featuring Pandita Anuradha Pal, the world’s first professional female Tabla player, was a striking departure from the usual music choices for fashion runways. Deeply rooted in tradition, the performance captivated music lovers and bridged the worlds of fashion and music in a harmonious tribute to Indian culture.
In similar fashion, at the FDCI India Couture Week 2024, Indian designer Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla’s show incorporated a curated playlist, ‘Disco Mujra’, blending classic Indian tabla and qawwali with modern drums and guitar. Designers such as Anita Dongre and Satya Paul have previously collaborated with Indian folk artists like Bhanwari Devi, Komorebi (Tarana Marwah), and Curtain Blur (Abhishek Bhatia), merging music and fashion to create unique, culturally rich experiences.
Trendsetting:
As tools of cultural and self-expression, music and fashion also collide to shape global trends. From Elvis Presley’s impact on how men saw fashion, to Kurt Cobain contributing to the pop punk movement, to Madonna being one of the biggest fashion icons of 21st century or Lady Gaga’s extravagance, artists have always influenced fashion choices.
Creative synergies between the two industries have also seen collaborations between fashion brands and music artists. The rise and fall of Kanye West’s Yeezy collaborations with Adidas and Gap are a leading example. Another one is that of Dua Lipa – on top of being the co-chair for Met Gala 2023, she embraced fashion by co-designing a women’s collection ‘La Vacanza’ with Donatella Versace, the chief creative officer of the Italian fashion house Versace.
Music artists/ singers are increasingly diversifying their revenue stream realising the potential fashion holds to supplement their music and self-expression. Merchandising for instance, is a popular revenue driver and also serves a connection with fans who show their commitment and following of the artist by donning fashion items endorsed or created by them. Indian artist Diljit Dosanjh is a case in point. Acclaimed internationally both as a music artist and fashionista, his recently concluded Dil-luminati tour had valuable merchandising tie-ups including one with Levi’s that launched exclusive Diljit Dosanjh merchandise in celebration of the tour. In early March 2025, Levi’s announced Dosanjh as its newest global ambassador.
The influence music artists have on fashion is becoming increasingly evident, especially with recent high-profile appointments by global fashion houses. For example, Louis Vuitton tapped Pharrell Williams, a renowned figure from the music industry, to take on the role of artistic director for its menswear designs. Similarly, musician Future was selected as the first guest creative director for Lanvin’s new incubator project, Lanvin Lab, which also introduced a new division for leather goods and accessories. A$AP Rocky, the acclaimed American rapper, was appointed Ray-Ban’s first-ever creative director and works with Puma as the creative director for their Formula 1 Partnership. As global brands recognize the trend-setting power and cultural influence of music artists, traditional brand ambassadorships are evolving into more dynamic and collaborative roles. These partnerships signal a shift in how celebrities and musicians are shaping the fashion industry, influencing everything from design direction to marketing strategies.
Common legal fabric:
Beneath the functioning of both industries and creative collaborations, lies an intricate web of legal interaction. From intellectual property protection to enforcement of rights to monetisation through relevant agreements, several cases have highlighted the importance of strong legal protection. While copyright grants the creator of an original work the exclusive rights to reproduce, distribute, perform, and display the work, trademarks protect brand names, logos etc. Design rights that protect the aesthetic aspect or outward appearance of a product serve as a valuable complement in the world of fashion.
TRADEMARKS:
Registering trademarks for song titles, personal names, and names of music festivals is not uncommon. One such example of this is the title of the Indian song, “Kolaveri Di,” for which trademark registration was sought in the year 2011, reflecting it’s growing commercial value. Personal names are also subject matter of trademark protection and several artists like Taylor Swift, Beyoncé and Adele as well as fashion designers such as Elie Saab, Christian Dior, Gaurav Gupta, Sabyasachi, all have registered their names as trademarks. Taylor Swift famously also has registration for the name of her fanbase ‘Swifties’. Registration of trademarks is prima facie evidence of ownership and assists in initiating infringement suits.
The importance and relevance of trademark clearances, registration is highlighted in the recent case of the American pop icon ‘Katy Perry’ and Australian designer ‘Katie Taylor’ operating a clothing line under the name “Katie Perry”. While Taylor registered her trademark in the year 2009, the pop icon adopted her stage name as early as in 2002, creating a legal tussle when merchandise bearing “Katy Perry” was sold during the singer’s Australian tour. Initially, the Federal Court of Australia ruled in favour of Taylor, but on appeal, the court found the marks deceptively similar and ordered cancellation of Taylor’s trademarks due to the singer’s prior use of her name. The court noted that Taylor had not applied to register her mark as soon as she started her business but did so upon learning of Perry’s reputation. Australia is a first-to-use jurisdiction on account of which Katy Perry received protection for use of the said name. Hypothetically, if a similar situation arose in a first-to-file jurisdiction, the outcome of the case may have differed significantly. Thus, it is important to navigate global check-lists, tailoring brand protection strategies across countries to avoid legal tussles on ownership.
Another example of a trademark dispute concerns Perry Moise, record producer & hip-hop artist whose stage name ‘Burberry Perry’ was changed after a law suit was filed by fashion brand ‘Burberry’.
COPYRIGHT:
In India, the Copyright Act of 1957 governs the use of music in public performances, including in fashion shows. Entities wishing to play pre-recorded music must secure licenses from organizations such as the Phonographic Performance Limited (PPL) and Indian Performing Right Society (IPRS). Without these licenses, brands face risk of infringement actions. An example worth discussing is when PPL obtained an injunction by the Delhi High Court against the organisers of the ‘Bangalore Fashion Week’ and the Intercontinental Hotel Group, where the fashion show was hosted. Bangalore Fashion Week was sued for not paying the requisite license fee to play songs during the fashion week, and the hotel was sued for not checking up on required licenses prior to the event.
Apart from use in fashion shows, music is a necessary tool in advertisements and fashion houses often collaborate with artists to launch and promote their products. However, complications are not unusual specially when concerns over intellectual property infringement arise. For instance, Louis Vuitton found itself in trouble after Venezuelan composer accused the brand of using his music without permission in a 2021 ad campaign starring Chiara Ferragni. The claim alleged that Louis Vuitton’s version of the song copied key elements of the original composition, including its melody, harmony, and rhythm. Similarly, Sony Music filed a lawsuit against Marriott Hotels for 931 instances of copyright infringement, citing unauthorized use of its sound recordings in social media posts, including those from Marriott’s paid influencers. Another recent example is of Miley Cyrus, a renowned singer who has recently been accused of copying Bruno Mars’ 2011 track for her song ‘Flowers’. While the outcome of the suit is awaited, interestingly, brand such as GUCCI/ SEPHORA have used the song ‘Flowers’ in their fragrance advertisement. While the music artists battle rights over IP, the role and involvement of fashion houses remains to be seen as licensing agreements often form part of collaboration/brand arrangements, necessitating conversation on applicable liabilities.
Conclusion: The Sound of Fashion’s Future
As music continues to play a significant role in shaping the fashion industry, the legal framework governing their intersection must evolve accordingly. Intellectual property laws, ranging from copyright to trademark, will increasingly define how musicians and fashion designers collaborate. As this dynamic relationship expands, a clear understanding of the legalities involved will be crucial for safeguarding the rights of all creative individuals. With India’s growth trajectory gaining global attention, the influence of both the music and fashion industries within the country and beyond is expected to rise. The growing international presence of Indian fashion and music is poised to shape exciting trends, making this intersection a space worth watching closely.
About Author:
Ms. Radha Khera – She is Managing Associate at Remfry & Sagar, India, and works with the Firm’s Intellectual Property & Fashion/Luxury Law practice.
Disclaimer: The views expressed are of Author.
